Yet another parade

Before Independence Day recedes too far into the rear-view mirror, I need to note a rather extraordinary (to our eyes) parade we encountered a week ago.

We had driven to Gianyar to visit the famous night market, but encountered heavy traffic as we drew close to the centre of town. A side street or two later rather surprisingly found us a place to leave the car, and after a short walk we were back at the park that we had visited several weeks earlier. Rather than just a few boys with kites, this day the park was packed with families, balloon and ice-cream sellers, and had a covered, raised viewing area full of very important looking, uniformed spectators. In the surrounding streets were team after team of young marchers. All boys of primary school age, all dressed to the nines, and, to our astonishment, all wearing makeup.

We had happened across the Gianyar Regency's annual schools Independence Day marching display. Forty-three primary schools from across the Regency, including Ubud, were participating, with the girls due to parade the following day.

We had seen the practice parades through the streets earlier in the month but this was the culmination. I imagine it is a great honour to be selected, as there were only about 25 marchers per team, oldest at the front and littlest at the back. A leader, who seemed to be quite young in all the teams, blew the whistle and called the shots. Uniforms varied enormously, although plaid seemed to be popular, but a hat of some description was essential, and most teams had gloves and some, tights.

Precision marching was interspersed with a performance in front of the crowd. Obviously a performance of choice as it was as varied as a traditional kecak to gangnam style. Proud parents followed their boys around the streets - by the time each team completed the circuit they must have marched a couple of kilometers, stopping to do their special thing every 100 meters or so. Poor little boys must have been exhausted by the end, but oh, so proud.

And the makeup? We had noticed it before on male MCs at events, so think that it might be part of a performance persona, just as an actor would prepare for a stage appearance. Unusual to our 'bule' eyes, normal for Indonesian people.

We were the only 'bules' there and were warmly greeted by everyone. Little children delighted in coming up and practising their English.

Isn't it the way that the most memorable times are the unexpected ones? We weren't able to return to see the girls, but can only imagine how much effort went into their appearance. I am finding it difficult to imagine anything more removed from the activities of a typical Australian boy of the same age, but long live our differences.

Independence Day: gallery

Who doesn't love a parade? A day for young and old. Football Field, Ubud, yesterday. We missed the greasy poles though.

Merdeka!

Independence Day is being celebrated all over Indonesia today. On 17 August 1945 the archipelago gained sovereignty from Dutch colonial rule. Red and white has been profilerating since the beginning of the month but in the past day or two we have noticed that the many statues that commemorate the freedom fighters of that hard-won struggle have been decked out in ceremonial clothing.

The word 'merdeka' means freedom, and was used by the first President of the new Republic, Sukarno:

Continue on that loud battle cry, as the soul calls out loud for freedom! A soul of freedom, one of fighting and working spirit! TO FIGHT AND TO WORK! Prove it! (Translation source: Wikipedia)

On Wednesday we happened across an extraordinary event connected with Independence Day, but it's worth a post of its own and I will do so as soon as I can.

Of course it was not all smooth. Terrible events happened in the Soeharto years, and tonight we will attending a screening of what is bound to be a very confronting film about the era.

But before that we will wander up to the football field and watch the goings on. We are told greasy poles are involved.

Tomorrow there are at least three mass cremations happening all within a very easy walk. Taking the car would be a nightmare, so we will spend the day strolling and observing this very Balinese celebration of death. It will be quite a different experience from the Royal Cremation that occurred in our first week here.

Image source: 67 Tahun Indonesia Merdeka

A little bit of this...

...and a little bit of that.

Just a catchup post, really. I really want to write a post about the Bali caste system and the complex system of names (yes, it is complex - a million Wayans is only a part of the story) as much to get things clear in my own head as any other reason. But it requires some research, so watch this space.

As mentioned in the photographs earlier, flags and bunting have started to appear. Independence Day is celebrated on 17 August, and as well as the profusion of red and white we have noticed that small marching contingents have begun practice-parading the streets. Groups of school students, led by a teacher (?) can be seen and heard along the roads as they march, sing and call 'left, left, left, right, left'  only in Bahasa Indonesia (kiri, kiri, kiri, kanan, kiri). As we still have two weeks to go, this nationalism can only increase. As well as ceremonial processions, these will add another layer of congestion to the traffic.

In the past week we have been down to the coast three times, for various reasons. You need to allow at least two hours from Ubud anywhere in the Denpasar vicinity although it's less than a 40km journey. Sadie has generally proved to be a reliable guide, with mercifully long periods of silence if the road is straight. But she hasn't been programmed to deal with ceremonies. And there are plenty. Some just involve a patient wait while the procession passes, others a complete detour. Sadie and both of us are equally discombobulated if this happens as we really have no idea where we are headed. Sadie wants us to get back exactly where we were but the pecalang will have none of it. So it's round and round we go through the back streets (Kerobokan yesterday) until we sight a road sign (rare) or some landmark that matches the physical map.

Never plan to be anywhere in a hurry if it involves driving. The Balinese don't speak of jam karet (rubber time) for nothing.

Seminyak is full of new hotel construction.  Quite amazing, given that occupancy rates are already low. It's always quite a relief to return to Ubud.  It has its problems, but it's still very green. Long may that continue.

Speaking of Independence Day, Betel Nut has selected this date to screen a film I had already read a lot about. It speaks volumes about how far things have come since the Soeharto era  that this will be happening. We will be there of course and you can expect a post.

The next few weeks will be busy with holidays. Idul Fitri (Lebaran, locally, Muslim or not) occurs later this week and the shops are marking the occasion with displays rather like Western Easter chocolate extravaganzas. Ubud seems strangely quiet. Walking down Hanoman last night after 9pm it was almost eerie in its emptiness, yet this is the high tourism season. Apparently there won't be a plane seat to anywhere else in Indonesia this week as many people return to their families for this holiday.

And in the village of Kedewatan (just around the corner) there will be a mass cremation of 60 people later in the month. We have passed the pavilion where the bulls are being made several times. Such a big ceremony is not uncommon. Ordinary people wait up to five years until they can afford to farewell their loved ones, and this way the ceremonial expenses are shared. It should be quite a spectacle.

I am working on the caste post, but it might take a while. I would normally be a bit more creative with image layout, but I am working in less than conducive circumstances, but hey, ho the impression is the thing.