Yet another parade

Before Independence Day recedes too far into the rear-view mirror, I need to note a rather extraordinary (to our eyes) parade we encountered a week ago.

We had driven to Gianyar to visit the famous night market, but encountered heavy traffic as we drew close to the centre of town. A side street or two later rather surprisingly found us a place to leave the car, and after a short walk we were back at the park that we had visited several weeks earlier. Rather than just a few boys with kites, this day the park was packed with families, balloon and ice-cream sellers, and had a covered, raised viewing area full of very important looking, uniformed spectators. In the surrounding streets were team after team of young marchers. All boys of primary school age, all dressed to the nines, and, to our astonishment, all wearing makeup.

We had happened across the Gianyar Regency's annual schools Independence Day marching display. Forty-three primary schools from across the Regency, including Ubud, were participating, with the girls due to parade the following day.

We had seen the practice parades through the streets earlier in the month but this was the culmination. I imagine it is a great honour to be selected, as there were only about 25 marchers per team, oldest at the front and littlest at the back. A leader, who seemed to be quite young in all the teams, blew the whistle and called the shots. Uniforms varied enormously, although plaid seemed to be popular, but a hat of some description was essential, and most teams had gloves and some, tights.

Precision marching was interspersed with a performance in front of the crowd. Obviously a performance of choice as it was as varied as a traditional kecak to gangnam style. Proud parents followed their boys around the streets - by the time each team completed the circuit they must have marched a couple of kilometers, stopping to do their special thing every 100 meters or so. Poor little boys must have been exhausted by the end, but oh, so proud.

And the makeup? We had noticed it before on male MCs at events, so think that it might be part of a performance persona, just as an actor would prepare for a stage appearance. Unusual to our 'bule' eyes, normal for Indonesian people.

We were the only 'bules' there and were warmly greeted by everyone. Little children delighted in coming up and practising their English.

Isn't it the way that the most memorable times are the unexpected ones? We weren't able to return to see the girls, but can only imagine how much effort went into their appearance. I am finding it difficult to imagine anything more removed from the activities of a typical Australian boy of the same age, but long live our differences.

Rabies

We saw this sign at a major intersection yesterday after spending some time in the city of Gianyar. Interesting then to read when we got home that a rabid dog had bitten five people in the town only a day or two earlier.

It was hoped that the disease would be eradicated by 2015. A few months ago we watched the vaccination program in action on Sanur beach, but dogs sporting the yellow collar are fewer up here.

We have had the immunisation. Expensive, but we felt worth it for an extended stay, especially as Eddie's walks take him into some remote villages. But we are not bullet proof and we don't take risks. However cute and healthy-looking the street dog is there is no feeding or petting, and monkeys are best viewed from afar. As an aside, Monkey Forest Road in the late afternoon provides many photo opportunities if you don't feel inclined to go right into the forest. But walk there. Gridlock is normal.

Gianyar, as everywhere, is full of dogs. Even though it is the administrative capital of the regency, in our several hours of wandering we saw no other foreigner, but plenty of puppies. We did make a major parking blunder, overstaying our spot which we now understand turns into motorcycle-only at 1pm but we were allowed to escape the barrier (which wasn't there when we parked) after smiling, shrugging, apologising and inflating the Rp2000 normal fee to Rp10000.

Had we known about the rabies incident we still would have gone to Gianyar. And we will return soon to visit the night market (pasar malam), which is reputedly one of the best on the island. The day market is terrific - a genuine market for the people, full of, well everything. From fresh and cooked food to hardware and ornamental fish.

Shops along the main road seem to specialise in gold jewellery and traditional clothing. The longer I am here the more I want a kebaya (lace blouse worn with sash and sarong) of my own. I will have to have one made though as most Balinese women are petite.
We spent some time at the park watching a training drill for a youth group and also the kites. It's kite season and that is worth a post in its own right.

Our park snack comprised an unhealthy but tasty box of 10 small doughnuts that cost all of Rp8000; about 80 cents. We tried to share with some of the kite boys but we have noticed before that Balinese children won't accept such offers, and these boys were no exception.

And Gianyar has a Hardy's! Previously we had gone down to Sanur for my department store fix, but here is one closer to home. Going into this cluttered, cheap-as-chips shop is like stepping into a time warp. It's great! Not high fashion, but functional clothes and shoes at prices paid by local people. Best of all, brand makeup at the same sort of price.

Rabies or no, we'll go back to Gianyar.


The road we decided to explore on the way home took us to Pantai Lebih, a black sand beach with views of Nusa Penida and Ganung Agung. Sanur (with different sand) must have been like this once. Two cremation towers were bobbing around in the surf.

Did I mention that it's great to have a car?

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