Bargain Hunt

As we head towards the end of our first two months here, we wonder where the time has gone. But then we realise that we have been fairly restricted in the past few weeks. With our Bahasa Indonesia class beginning at 12.30 every day, there is only a small window before and after the lesson; time just to have a walk and a swim or go down to the Bintang Supermarket and pick up a few supplies, but not venture too far. I am also helping out a bit at the Festival office in the mornings. By the time we have done our homework after class  it's just about time for the evening meal and another day has passed. Then there's the social life three or four nights a week, but that's a whole other story.

Some of what we are learning is sticking but the real-world test happens on Thursday when we head for the Sukawati market clutching a Rp 20,000 note to see what we can buy with our new-found Bahasa Indonesia haggling skills. Or not. Not so long ago you could have said that the note would be equivalent to $2 but the falling dollar has chopped about 10% off our purchasing power. Eddie is after a ukulele (he'll be lucky!) and I wouldn't mind another sarong, so we'll see. Our teacher, Winda, will be coming along and hopefully she will bail us out of any predicament. Usually the classes go to the Ubud market, but the revamped pasar is so disappointingly dull that, as there are only three of us and Winda, we will venture a bit further afield.

One more week of classes and we are out on our own. Winda has given us a good foundation to build on and the rest is up to us. If we practise we should get there. Not fluent, but we will get by.

There is still so much to do and see in our remaining four months, some right here in Ubud. We still need to do a cooking class, see the white herons come home to roost at Petulu and visit the Gianyar night market. Further afield, Yogjakarta beckons as do the Gili Islands. And to see a komodo dragon would be amazing.

We are beginning to think that having our own transport would give us a bit of freedom. I am not brave enough for a scooter but maybe we will hire a car for a day or two to get a feel for driving conditions here.

And as if to tease me for even suggesting that things need shaking up, as I write this I do believe that we have just had an earthquake. A baby one, but a shaking and a rumbling nevertheless. Love this place. You certainly know you are alive.

Change is all around

Each trip to Bali leaves me struggling with the question of whether visitors like us are part of the problem or part of the solution. Change is everywhere, the result of catering to tourist needs at the expense of traditional lifestyle. We can rationalise our involvement as being low impact as we stay in simple accommodation, have modest needs but are also contributing to the economy. Nevertheless we see the rice fields disappearing around Ubud visit by visit, and evidence of even greater development. There has to be a limit to how much this place can sustain.

As Eddie has not been feeling well, we spent the first few days quietly. Yesterday we walked up to town - the centre is about a 20-minute walk from Campuan where we stay - and saw the  'new' market for the first time. If, like us, you have fond memories of the shambolic space opposite the Palace, you might be as disappointed as we were at the sanitised version. Safer? Absolutely. Cleaner? Sure. Atmospheric? Not at all. That there were so few people there (although Ubud is pretty quiet at the moment) seemed to say it all. I imagine the stall holders have a higher rental, but they certainly seem to have fewer buyers. There is no incentive to wander upstairs, so stalls up there would be lucky to have any sales at all. Not the same for anybody although remnants of the old place remain at the back.

L

Eddie's shoulder has still been troubling him so he had a massage at Golden Hands in the lovely Jalan Kejang. The recommendation proved excellent - the best treatment he as received in four countries, at no more than $6 for the hour. He is saying that it is definitely feeling better, so he'll go back in a few days for more. Golden hands and magic fingers.

Another change along Jl Campuan is this scary excavation. Wouldn't want to be in the temple when it's raining heavily. The space will be filled by yet another gallery in about three months.