Routines, or not...

In the week since we arrived the rhythms of our day have shifted. It's early to bed, early to rise and two meals a day - our usual Bali pattern and we slip into it almost without realising. An early coffee, a swim, then reading an ebook and checking the online newspapers, followed by a latish breakfast around ten. We don't eat again until somewhere between four and five, when we have a fairly substantial meal.

This morning our American neighbours told us about a restaurant that has sprung up in Jl Goutama since we were last here. The couple are permanents who are building their dream home on one of the ridges. It's taken over two years so far and probably won't be finished any time soon, but that's OK by them.

One of the benefits of eating when we do is that we have the full attention of the kitchen and excellent service. Another is that we can walk the meal off on the way home while its still light, thereby avoiding the traps of falling into a deep hole on a dimly lit footpath or being attacked by a rogue frangipani.

Dolce Arancia proved to be as good as we had been told. A bit more expensive (at around $26) each than we usually pay for an evening meal but for three delicious courses and coffee, worth it. After a vegie day yesterday, we felt a need for meat, and the steak (and home-made Pringly crisped potatoes) filled the gap.

Goutama (sometimes Gootama) is a charming, tree-lined narrow street that runs parallel to Jl Monkey Forest. As well as the usual spas, clothing and gift shops, there are a number of lokal warungs, and as well as this new restaurant, other excellent eating places such as Nomad, Bar Luna, Pignou di Penyu and a favorite of ours, The Melting Wok. It is the street chosen by the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival for its annual street party. There are plenty of reasons to visit often.

Walking past the Palace on the way home it was obvious that everyone had been working hard. The tower is up and the bamboo litters that the men will use to carry the body to the cemetery have been constructed. Tomorrow will be a big day but it might be a good idea to stay well clear - we have seen a large Ogoh-ogoh monster topple and it was nowhere as big as this.

Change is all around

Each trip to Bali leaves me struggling with the question of whether visitors like us are part of the problem or part of the solution. Change is everywhere, the result of catering to tourist needs at the expense of traditional lifestyle. We can rationalise our involvement as being low impact as we stay in simple accommodation, have modest needs but are also contributing to the economy. Nevertheless we see the rice fields disappearing around Ubud visit by visit, and evidence of even greater development. There has to be a limit to how much this place can sustain.

As Eddie has not been feeling well, we spent the first few days quietly. Yesterday we walked up to town - the centre is about a 20-minute walk from Campuan where we stay - and saw the  'new' market for the first time. If, like us, you have fond memories of the shambolic space opposite the Palace, you might be as disappointed as we were at the sanitised version. Safer? Absolutely. Cleaner? Sure. Atmospheric? Not at all. That there were so few people there (although Ubud is pretty quiet at the moment) seemed to say it all. I imagine the stall holders have a higher rental, but they certainly seem to have fewer buyers. There is no incentive to wander upstairs, so stalls up there would be lucky to have any sales at all. Not the same for anybody although remnants of the old place remain at the back.

L

Eddie's shoulder has still been troubling him so he had a massage at Golden Hands in the lovely Jalan Kejang. The recommendation proved excellent - the best treatment he as received in four countries, at no more than $6 for the hour. He is saying that it is definitely feeling better, so he'll go back in a few days for more. Golden hands and magic fingers.

Another change along Jl Campuan is this scary excavation. Wouldn't want to be in the temple when it's raining heavily. The space will be filled by yet another gallery in about three months.