Living the (expat) dream

We've had a taste of how good it can get. Mind you, we love our simple life, but there's no doubt that it's Bali on a budget. We have everything we need here* but last night we saw another lifestyle altogether. And I have to confess to just a teensy bit of villa envy.

The lovely couple that we caught up with at the Villa Kitty do** spend about 9 months here in Ubud and only about three at home in Queensland. They have a villa in a prime location in Penestanan, a stone's throw from the action but very private down a laneway that backs onto a rice field. And what can I say but it's gorgeous. They have done a wonderful job in creating their Ubud home and even have two beautiful Villa Kitty cats. When they arrived as youngsters, the cats spent a few hours exploring the lane, visiting the warung on the corner, dispatching the rats in the roof and haven't been outside since. They sit in the doorway and watch the world, but are now homebodies. When their humans are in Australia they are cared for by the one staff member, a delightful young man who does everything needed to keep the villa ticking over.

It's possible, but not easy, to purchase property outright here. You will see many places available but they are usually leasehold. The length of the lease will vary and therefore the upfront cost. A longer lease will be 25 years with a renewal option; shorter ones may be as few as 7 years. Not having outright ownership is a stumbling block for many who are used to other models but, as our new friends commented, their lease will see them out and they will have had the pleasure of the lifestyle for the amount that they paid.

Our meal was in a local cafe that has a strong expat presence. It's part-owned by an Australian, with food geared towards a Western palate, but certainly tasty enough and well priced. We met a few people and have been invited to the notorious expat Flyday night quiz at the Fly Cafe. By all accounts this is a Very Fun Night.

Tonight Bar Luna is giving a preview of the 2013 Writers Festival as part of their regular Thursday night literary event. I know that they have secured Lionel Shriver*** and Deborah Moggach as two of the headline attractions. But the afternoon rain has been very steady and if it doesn't ease as it usually does, we'll stay in.

The image above is not of their villa - I wouldn't be so rude, it's an Internet one - but theirs does have a swimming pool. lovely gardens, open plan pavilions ... sigh.

*And sorry, not telling
**Raised Rp 20,000,000 or $2000, so that will help a great deal.
*** Have just finished reading Big Brother, and still digesting it, so to speak.

Early morning

Between first light and about 8 is the coolest, loveliest time to walk. There is almost never rain; that tends to come in the afternoon or evening, when it happens. By about 7.30 the traffic has started to build and the heat of the day is becoming apparent. But early morning is magic, especially when you go off the backroads and though the rice fields and villages.

Yesterday we climbed the short staircase beside the Bintang supermarket* up into the scattered villages of Penestanan, high on the ridge. This route begins as narrow laneways, barely a motorcycle width and often with steep falls on one side. It would be very easy for an inexperienced rider to lose control and never be seen again, but the Balinese have been riding their machines since they were children and are very skilled. Tucked down these laneways are all manner of accommodation from homestays to luxury villas, although you would want to be travelling light to access them. A visitor to Bali need not book in advance at this time of year. Head for the hills and explore what is available. You are unlikely to be disappointed.

This village is known as a yoga, meditation and alternative medicine hub, but many tiny warungs also tempt a break in the walk. Another glimpse of how Bali used to be, with papaya and mango growing freely in the lanes.

Once you hit the main Penestanan road however, it's back to traffic although the noise is not so bad as it is punctuated by the crow of the fighting cockerels that the Balinese men keep under baskets in the compounds.

Plenty of spas, hotels and cafes along here, including a branch of Kue, the go-to place in Ubud if you fancy a bread or cake fix. The Penestanan store is much smaller, but has a selection of goodies and is a lot more convenient for us. A tamarind and ginger soda did the refreshment trick for me, but Eddie had a great coffee and a scone that he declared very nearly as good as the ones he had in Ireland (and they were the best ever).

Down the very steep hill (no pavement, lots of traffic) past the Blanco Museum brings you back to Jl Campuan and home. Along this road is the usual access stairway to the top, but the Bintang stairway provides a longer, but more scenic (if narrow) pathway. Two hours at a comfortable pace was rewarded by the scenery and the post-walk cooling swim.

*entitled to a post of its own at some stage