Rainy day outing

Part of the lovely entrance ticket

There's never a bad time to visit a gallery, but rainy days are ideal. Yes, it's still raining on and off, much to the puzzlement of everyone. When we were down at the coast last week, we were told that there had been no rain at all. Yesterday also marked three calendar months since our arrival in Ubud. Three more (minus a few days) to go, so we are on the downhill run.

So once the heavy 'hujan' had eased, we headed up to town to visit Museum Puri Lukisan, the gallery just down from the Palace. This was another of the 'must visit one day' places as we had walked past so many times without going in. Ordinary admission is Rp50000 but for a little extra, afternoon tea is included and a little extra again, a full meal. We opted for afternoon tea in the small dining area set in gorgeous gardens. The museum was established in the 1950s, designed in part by Lempad whose works figure prominently. The other influential designer was the Dutch artist Rudolf Bonnet who spent a great deal of time here. Puri Lukisan will host a large exhibition of Lempad's art in August next year with works being brought back to Bali from collections throughout the world.

The grounds are stunning, even in the drizzle. Four pavilions house the art that ranges from 16th century pieces on cloth (some in need of conservation) to as up to date as this year, more of which later. You could easily spend an hour in each pavilion seeking detail in the intricate paintings, drawings and carvings and reading the signage. We observed some Western teenagers obviously there under sufferance allowing an average of one second per piece, but perhaps they will return as interested adults one day.

Looking beyond Gallery 3

Sculpture in banyan tree

No photographs were allowed in these galleries but in the second area our viewing was accompanied by the security man practising his gamelan. Quite charming.

With three galleries down there wasn't a lot of time to visit the fourth, a new exhibition of young artists that had just opened, but we thought we would do a quick skim. What we hadn't realised was that the work was all in the Batuan style, a genre we had first seen and enjoyed at the Neka last year. Batuan paintings are still very dense, covering the entire canvas, but they include social commentary and have a Where's Wally (or Waldo, if you are reading in the US) quality. You could spend ages reading them and would notice something different with every viewing. These were for sale, and photographs were allowed. We would love to own one, but prices have already exceeded our budget. The Rp50000 catalogue was excellent value however as it has images of all the paintings and the text of the commentary.

And when I say as up to date as this year, this one was finished within a month of the incident. The picture is called 'Lion Floating Happily' and is by I Ketut Sadia.

We ran out of time, but we still have weeks to return and revisit this current exhibition. A section of this pavilion was devoted to the influence of one of Bali's most loved rulers, Tjokorda* Gede Agung Sukawati, who appears to be a most interesting and humble man. The memorabilia deserves more time than we could allow, and as there is nothing I can find on the Internet about him other than passing reference such as this list of monarchs, a few images and reference to a book he has written perhaps it's time for even Wikipedia to catch up.

More paintings from Batuan below:

Harley Rally (detail) by I Ketut Manggi

Benoa Beach* (detail) by Dewa Ketut Margawa

Funeral ceremony (detail) by Ni Wayan Merti

 *Modern spelling = Cokorda. C is always prounced Ch in Bahasa Indonesia.
** Benoa Bay is the site of a controversial plan to reclaim part of the harbour and construct a F1 racing track and a Disneyland 'attraction'.

The herons of Petulu

We have finally witnessed the return of the herons to the village of Petulu Ganung. This phenomenon has been occurring, according to the village leaflet, since November 7, 1965. Yes, as precise as that. In the previous weeks the villagers had been partaking in many ceremonies, as they felt that the gods needed appeasement. The political situation in Indonesia, including Bali, was horrendous. Many thousands died on the island but the people of the village feel they were spared because of the lavish ceremony they had performed earlier despite their poverty. The birds arrived soon after, bringing with them prosperity from the attraction they have created.

A small entry fee is requested as you enter the village. The birds start to roost from about 5pm onwards, first a few, gradually increasing in number as the day draws to a close.

On the day we went there were few tourists: a small group of friendly schoolgirls from Denpasar, accompanied by their biology teacher and a backpacking couple from New Zealand. Made, a young man from the village, offered an insight into the phenomenon in excellent English. He told us that going to University was never an option for him, but he taught himself English at home using any textbook he could get his hands on. He is obviously a quick learner. A beautiful black Balinese kitten decided to join us with a miaow bigger than himself.

The leaflet advises that the birds 'populate once a year by egging process' and that the 'egging season falls on November December'. I quote with affection at the quaintness of expression. Perhaps Made should have advised on the translation. From nest building in November to March, when the chicks can fly, the birds stay put in Petulu.

As we walked back through the village at about 6 everyday life continued as it has done for centuries, including the men gossiping as they groomed their prize fighting cocks.

Petulu Ganung is about three kilometres north of Ubud. To reach it you drive through sawah to the village of Junjungan on an interesting and beautiful journey that passes a bridge to nowhere

and the now famous Not For Sale art installation. When we first saw this in a walk last year, it was arresting in its simplicity and powerful statement. Perhaps this was only ever intended to be temporary and the materials used not durable, as it has changed, become busier in its font and adornment. It has become quite an attraction though, and only yesterday a big concert was being held there.

Now

Last year