Sanur #2

Not so much about Sanur, this post, but about the journey home again. It's always pleasant to go down to the coast, and we enjoy the seaside vibe of Sanur, which I have already said is much more laid back than the other side of the island. We went down for 24 hours because Eddie was keen to see a particular football game that was not being shown in Ubud. The weather was glorious, the sea was sparkling and the game was being screened on the TV in our room, so all those boxes were ticked. The room itself, well, adequate but in a great location. And it was only for a night. We checked out some other places while we were there and will make a different choice if we do this again.

With Ubud so crowded now at the height of the season, it was a surprise to find Sanur not just relatively quiet, but very quiet. Maybe everyone was sticking to their resort compounds.

On the Saturday we thought we might drive down to the Bukit Peninsula before heading home to the hills. Poor Sadie couldn't cope with new roadworks, and instead we found ourselves on part of the new Benoa toll road. When I say toll, at the moment it's only Rp4000, or 40c. It doesn't seem to go anywhere except Benoa Harbour, but as this area is being proposed as a huge reclamation and development project, a toll road makes sense. Despite much controversy, the Governor appears to have made up his mind that this will go ahead regardless of (Balinese) public opinion.

The harbour is symbolic of economic inequality. On one side, two enormous luxury yachts. Megamillions. Mind you, the sewage trucks were dumping directly into the water not far away but I doubt if the owners were aware.

But we ventured down another road and came across the fishing boat harbour. Hundreds of vessels that barely looked seaworthy all crammed together. The feeling here was very different. None of the usual friendliness, pure suspicion. A tarpaulin hastily thrown over a catch, but Eddie was sure he had seen shark fins before it was all covered up. Very, very poor people living in a world a million miles away from the rich men's yachts. We didn't linger and discretion with the camera seemed wise.

We had noticed a magnificent Chinese-style temple on the way to the harbour, so stopped on our way out to be rewarded with quite the most magnificent building we have seen in an island of magnificent buildings. Tempat Ibadah Tri Dharma di Benoa is only about a year old, and we were told by someone whose English was as fluent as our Indonesian that a Chinese architect had been brought in to oversee the construction. It appears to be multi-faith, is totally awe inspiring, is free to enter (but donations welcome) and I can't find any information to link to. If you are in the area, put it on your list.

Sadie's confusion became our mixed and most interesting experience, and the Bukit can wait for another day. Since then we have been to the Sacred Monkey Forest (who would have thought, after all this time?), seen an extraordinary competition, eaten bebek betutu and been busy with Writer's Festival voluntary work. These too will have to wait.

Oh, what a night!

Another month has slipped by, although June was Cinta Bahasa month with every day concerned with language learning. We received our certificates, deserved or not, on Friday and will be maintaining contact with Winda on Facebook where she will communicate solely in Bahasa Indonesia. We have also vowed to continue practising whenever and wherever we can, including catching up at Mingle and attempting to converse with Alison's tolerant staff.

At the end of each month, our host usually puts on a buffet for his guests. It's a generous gesture that gives us a chance to chat with others who are staying here long term or short. So it was no surprise when the invitation was issued to be there last evening. It was a surprise, however, that it was being held a little earlier than usual (could we be there between 5.30 and 6) and was the dining area a little more beautifully decorated than usual?

Before I reveal more, I will say that a site that I like to visit from time to time is 1000 Awesome Things, a celebration of the little things that delight us but that we don't often even recognise until they are pointed out to us. The driver who acknowledges thanks for letting them in, peeling an orange in one go - that sort of thing. Now I can add: being unexpectedly part of a stranger's birthday party.

For the last couple of weeks we had observed quite a large Australian group here who seem particularly close to our host. He's an exceedingly friendly fellow, but there was something more going on here as before they came he mentioned that 'family' would be here soon.

Last night's feast, for it was a feast, was a celebration of a birthday. The woman concerned had known our host and his Balinese family since he was a small boy, and is still very close to his mother. What a night, as much a surprise to her as it was to everyone lucky enough be there.

Before the food was served, we became aware of a clicking and clacking in the distance, increasing in volume, and then about 50 dancers made a dramatic entrance and proceeded to perform a kecak dance. By now it was growing dark, and the singers and dancers were illuminated by burning torches set strategically on the lawn. As the story (part of the Ramayana) unfolded many other dancers from beautiful women to a white monkey, an elaborate garuda and a cackling, evil king had their moment.

The evil king turned out to be Made, one of Eddie's regular morning walk companions. We had become aware of his artistic inclinations only recently, but the visit to his Wayang Kulit performance last week will have to be the subject of another post. Wonderful stuff, and we thought that was all. But soon after we had indulged ourselves in free flowing mojitos, babi guling, smoked duck, delicious salads and about a dozen other dishes, Made announced that his son would then present a fire dance.

More drama. Swirling and twirling fire, bursts of flame from the mouth, and by this time it was inky dark, so all the more impressive. Happy birthday, Australian and Indonesian style, was sung, a few heartfelt speeches heard and a couple of extraordinary cakes consumed before a special celebration came to an end. The birthday girl was thrilled and we were delighted and felt utterly privileged to have been included. Quite a party. The 1001st awesome thing.

Not less, but differently gifted

As we walked down Monkey Forest Road on Saturday, a smiling boy pressed an attractive leaflet into our hand. Sekitar Gunung Berapi (Around the Volcano) was being performed by the children of Sjaki-Tari-Us over the next three nights. The leaflet, in Bahasa Indonesia and English explained that the performance was an amalgam of a contemporary Balinese fairytale and a well-known story from the 'sober west'. Given our newly busy social life, Sunday night had to be it. And so it was.

The tourist prism through which we have viewed Balinese people in all past trips has never included intellectual disability. Last night we witnessed a joyous performance by many such children and teenagers as they told the story of Ibu, her seven children, the giants in the volcano and the ravenous wolves.

Sjari-Tari-Us is a Dutch charity working with these children and their families with the motto 'not less, but differently gifted'. University students from the Netherlands spend short placements offering physical and, in this case, artistic training. It was a wonderful night, with a performance opportunity for everyone from the littlest to the oldest. Sjari-Tari-Us is not only for families, it clearly was a family.

When you know to look, it's hard to miss the space at the eastern end of the football field (past the Pondok Pekak Library) with its colourful signage and yellow exterior. A shop and a warung serving cheap and yummy food help fund the work, as do performances such as this. Take the time to support them if you are passing.

As we sat enjoying our nasi goreng and babi kecap, some of the children walked past high-fiving us, so pleased that their performance had been a success. And of course, Eddie found a friend. As he always does. One of those memorable nights.

 Bukan kurang, tetapi istimewa. 

Not less, but differently gifted.

Sayur urab

This probably won't be the last time I mention this utterly delicious and super healthy dish of snake beans, coconut and secret herbs and spices. It can also be spelled sayur urap.

If ever I get the choice of a last meal, this is one dish that would be on the menu. I have found a recipe here that seems close to the taste sensation I enjoy. Do try this at home.