A little bit of this...

...and a little bit of that.

Just a catchup post, really. I really want to write a post about the Bali caste system and the complex system of names (yes, it is complex - a million Wayans is only a part of the story) as much to get things clear in my own head as any other reason. But it requires some research, so watch this space.

As mentioned in the photographs earlier, flags and bunting have started to appear. Independence Day is celebrated on 17 August, and as well as the profusion of red and white we have noticed that small marching contingents have begun practice-parading the streets. Groups of school students, led by a teacher (?) can be seen and heard along the roads as they march, sing and call 'left, left, left, right, left'  only in Bahasa Indonesia (kiri, kiri, kiri, kanan, kiri). As we still have two weeks to go, this nationalism can only increase. As well as ceremonial processions, these will add another layer of congestion to the traffic.

In the past week we have been down to the coast three times, for various reasons. You need to allow at least two hours from Ubud anywhere in the Denpasar vicinity although it's less than a 40km journey. Sadie has generally proved to be a reliable guide, with mercifully long periods of silence if the road is straight. But she hasn't been programmed to deal with ceremonies. And there are plenty. Some just involve a patient wait while the procession passes, others a complete detour. Sadie and both of us are equally discombobulated if this happens as we really have no idea where we are headed. Sadie wants us to get back exactly where we were but the pecalang will have none of it. So it's round and round we go through the back streets (Kerobokan yesterday) until we sight a road sign (rare) or some landmark that matches the physical map.

Never plan to be anywhere in a hurry if it involves driving. The Balinese don't speak of jam karet (rubber time) for nothing.

Seminyak is full of new hotel construction.  Quite amazing, given that occupancy rates are already low. It's always quite a relief to return to Ubud.  It has its problems, but it's still very green. Long may that continue.

Speaking of Independence Day, Betel Nut has selected this date to screen a film I had already read a lot about. It speaks volumes about how far things have come since the Soeharto era  that this will be happening. We will be there of course and you can expect a post.

The next few weeks will be busy with holidays. Idul Fitri (Lebaran, locally, Muslim or not) occurs later this week and the shops are marking the occasion with displays rather like Western Easter chocolate extravaganzas. Ubud seems strangely quiet. Walking down Hanoman last night after 9pm it was almost eerie in its emptiness, yet this is the high tourism season. Apparently there won't be a plane seat to anywhere else in Indonesia this week as many people return to their families for this holiday.

And in the village of Kedewatan (just around the corner) there will be a mass cremation of 60 people later in the month. We have passed the pavilion where the bulls are being made several times. Such a big ceremony is not uncommon. Ordinary people wait up to five years until they can afford to farewell their loved ones, and this way the ceremonial expenses are shared. It should be quite a spectacle.

I am working on the caste post, but it might take a while. I would normally be a bit more creative with image layout, but I am working in less than conducive circumstances, but hey, ho the impression is the thing.