Over for another year

Did the gods not want this to end? A significant earth tremor just as the party started at Blanco Museum would suggest so. We have had about four since getting here in May, and this was the biggest, no doubt an aftershock from the 7.1 incident that hit the Philippines earlier in the day, with a growing death toll. We were busy helping Thando and Truth stock up on goodies for their return trip to Zimbabwe today, so didn't even notice but friends said that it had been a good one.

So the Festival has concluded for another year.If there is time to reflect further before we leave for home in 10 days (10 days!) I will, otherwise later, as I will keep this blog alive with information about tradition, culture and other aspects of Balinese life in the space between trips. For we will be back. And soon.

Of the almost-200 writers here this year we were able to see but a handful, but every session offered insight and often humour. Some highlights:

• Opening Ceremony at the Palace. An invitation event that had beautiful Balinese elements that was unfortunately spoiled by the ceaseless loud chatter of people at the back who didn't even stop for the Prince's welcome speech. I cannot imagine that they would be as rude in their own country.
• I had not heard of US-born writer David Vann before this Festival, but Jennifer Byrne's interview with him revealed a very funny, engaging man, whose bleak past could have led to a very different life. Fascinating.
• Grandma Bilawara Lee of the Larrakia Nation in northern Australia and Cok Sawitri discussing the wisdom of elders, particularly women, in traditional societies. By abbreviating the title Cokorda to 'Cok' this woman is playing down her royal status. She did, however, exercise her right to speak in high Balinese, but the things she had to say, particularly about the feminine, at times confounded her translator. She speaks perfectly good English, but made the point that in the ten years of this festival held in Bali, the Balinese language had never been used in a forum. She has put that situation to rights.
• The courage and humanity of people such as Romani Benjamin and Ben Quilty who, through the arts are making a difference to the lives of refugees and prisoners. 
• Continuing this theme:  Mexican journalist Lydia Cacho and Egyptian activist Mona Prince whose lives continue to be in danger because they speak out. Two extraordinarily courageous women.
• Ben Quilty again. This time as he spoke of his work as official war artist for the Australian Defence Forces in Afghanistan and his ongoing connection with the young soldiers who continue to serve there. Very moving. He kept apologising that he was an artist at a writer's festival so felt a bit fraudulent but the word pictures that he evoked were powerful.
• Out of Africa Night at Bar Luna. Fantastic music and poetry from Thando and other African men who currently reside in the island. The place was packed, but people still managed to dance.
• The premiere of the film Jalanan, made by Ubud-based film maker Daniel Ziv, which had just won an award as best-documentary at the Busan International Film Festival in Korea. The award was presented on the night, and Boni, Ho and Titi, the three young Jakarta buskers who were stars of the film, played afterwards. Here's a teaser of this entertaining but thought-provoking movie. The music that followed wasn't too shabby, either, and included Australian Clare Bowditch and an Indonesian rock group* that all the kids knew well and sang along with. The lyrics seemed very political, taking a strong anti-corruption stance. Fabulous night.

Of course there was more. Much more. But you will just have to come along to this exciting, stimulating festival yourselves. I plan to put up a list of nearby accommodation for anyone who is seriously considering the trip so watch this space. 

Now for those who have read all of this post, your reward is this video of our new friend Thando performing one of his poems, courtesy of another friend of his who just happens to be in Bali right now and took Thando and Truth out on a boat for the day yesterday. Thank you James Maiden.

Home to Africa by Thando Sibanda from James Maiden on Vimeo. *later found out it was the band Navicula. They were good!

Not less, but differently gifted

As we walked down Monkey Forest Road on Saturday, a smiling boy pressed an attractive leaflet into our hand. Sekitar Gunung Berapi (Around the Volcano) was being performed by the children of Sjaki-Tari-Us over the next three nights. The leaflet, in Bahasa Indonesia and English explained that the performance was an amalgam of a contemporary Balinese fairytale and a well-known story from the 'sober west'. Given our newly busy social life, Sunday night had to be it. And so it was.

The tourist prism through which we have viewed Balinese people in all past trips has never included intellectual disability. Last night we witnessed a joyous performance by many such children and teenagers as they told the story of Ibu, her seven children, the giants in the volcano and the ravenous wolves.

Sjari-Tari-Us is a Dutch charity working with these children and their families with the motto 'not less, but differently gifted'. University students from the Netherlands spend short placements offering physical and, in this case, artistic training. It was a wonderful night, with a performance opportunity for everyone from the littlest to the oldest. Sjari-Tari-Us is not only for families, it clearly was a family.

When you know to look, it's hard to miss the space at the eastern end of the football field (past the Pondok Pekak Library) with its colourful signage and yellow exterior. A shop and a warung serving cheap and yummy food help fund the work, as do performances such as this. Take the time to support them if you are passing.

As we sat enjoying our nasi goreng and babi kecap, some of the children walked past high-fiving us, so pleased that their performance had been a success. And of course, Eddie found a friend. As he always does. One of those memorable nights.

 Bukan kurang, tetapi istimewa. 

Not less, but differently gifted.