Sariswati Day

Having just mentioned holidays, it was a bit of surprise to learn that this is a major ceremonial time for another reason, and one dear to my heart.

We had noticed many people, including children and young adults, in temple dress, many carrying offerings, but some just going about normal business such as shopping. We had been in Sanur overnight so it wasn't until we got back to Ubud that we learned that it was Sariswati Day.

Sariswati is the goddess of learning and her day is marked, as usual, every 210 days, but (and I am not sure of how the maths work here) always on a Saturday. On this day young people and teachers return to their schools and universities to show gratitude for their knowledge. Offerings are made to books and libraries, but for some reason reading itself is not permitted on the day. Reflection about the wisdom gained from knowledge is the focus.

And is it just coincidence that we came across this beautiful statue of Sariswati yesterday before we became aware of her day? So much to learn about the Hindu deities, so little time to absorb it all.

Saraswati is a particularly beautiful goddess. She is depicted on a lotus flower and is conveyed by a swan (sometimes a goose) and a peacock. In her four arms she plays a musical instrument in two, and carries sacred writings, often on a lontar palm, and holy beads in the others. The best outline of the day I can find,  explaining the symbolism, is here and the ongoing ceremonies over the next few days, here.

Maybe we just haven't noticed before, but we saw offerings being made in the family temple quite late last night. The College was also open late, and in the distance temple sounds carried across the still night air. The dogs seemed very restless, so perhaps all this activity was unusual and unsettled them.

But such value given to knowledge? We could learn much ourselves, we Westerners who assume that a University education is a right when so much of the world can't assume the most fundamental of schoolings. Gratitude is never misplaced.

Baliselalu's short video will bring you here for 39 seconds:

And as a related aside, I have been asking to be surprised for breakfast every morning. Three months of having to decide what I would like has become a bit boring, so the kitchen is enjoying cooking something different each morning. Today we were surprised with a dish of nasi kuning, a scrumptious, spicy yellow rice dish that is only prepared, yes, every 210 days - the day following Sariswati day. Grateful to be here? You bet.

Holidays

Three months ago there was no way I'd have been able to text in Bahasa Indonesia to try and set up a hair appointment, let alone understand the reply: Tutup ibu untuk idul fitri 1 minggu nanti hari selasa 13 agustus. I'd let the hair get out of control, just a little bit, but Nelly could surely fit me in?. Well, actually, no. And that's a no until next Tuesday because she has shut up shop for a week to mark the holiday of Idul Fitri, also called Lebaran. Ah well, my fault for not being more organised, and Tuesday it will have to be.

But the upside is that those language lessons are starting to pay off, and it does offer the perfect excuse to talk about holidays on the island.

The fact that Nelly is closed for a week probably indicates that she has gone to Java, like so many, to mark the end of Ramadhan. For the Hindu Balinese, today and tomorrow are holidays, as they are in the rest of the country, but business is probably pretty much as usual.

Bali operates on two calendar systems: for practical purposes, the Gregorian one that most of us use and the unique Balinese calendar. Just to complicate things even more, there's a lunar calendar thrown into the mix too.

One year in the Pakwukon system consists of 420 days, or two 'otons'. Each oton of 210 days has 30 weeks. You will soon realise that marking the passing of 210 days carries considerable significance. According to Ubud identity and matriach Murni, 210 days is the cycle of the rice plant from germination to flowering. Balinese people also celebrate two birthdays: the date they were born on the Western calendar and the day that marks the 210-day cycle. For the two days to coincide is rare and highly auspicious. And on the 210th day, a baby's feet are allowed to touch the ground for the first time.

But that's just the surface. Underneath is an incredibly complex system that would never be understood by outsiders without years of study. Temple ceremonies and holidays are calculated, dates are advised and people plan accordingly.

Probably the most important holidays on the island are Galungan and Kuningan, celebrated for 10 days, every 210 days. That's when you see the beautifully decorated penjors

outside every dwelling on the island. We will still be here for Galungan Day on October 24, but sadly will have left by the last day, Kuningan Day on November 4. Offices, shops and restaurants are often closed for a week during this period as there is so much temple business to attend to.

We have only been in Bali once during Nyepi, but it is our favourite Bali holiday. The Balinese New Year is a moveable feast, but will always occur during March or April. Weeks before the day you will see every village constructing huge ogoh-ogoh, or ferocious monsters.

Terrifying, ugly, very, very big and these days, sometimes with a contemporary twist. There's a Bob Marley one still at an intersection we pass frequently. In late afternoon on Nyepi Eve, these monsters are paraded to much merriment and a great deal of noise. Fireworks, explosives... anything goes, as long as they are noisy. They are scaring the evil gods away. But at 6am, all must be quiet. No one is allowed on the streets (except for emergencies) and the pecalang will shoo you back into your accommodation if you venture out. The airport is closed and there is not a sound, except the roosters and dogs, and even they seem quieter.

The idea is that those evil gods who were scared away last night might come back. They hover over Bali, look down and go, nah, nobody there so we'll leave them alone for another year. The Day of Silence concludes at 6am the next day and Bali resumes its normal, bustling activity. As you are not supposed to do anything but reflect on the year gone and the year ahead - not cook or use any electrical equipment - it also serves as a sort of Earth Day. One day in the year when there is no craziness. Seems like a good idea to me, and it's a wonderful time to be here and experience Balinese culture. YouTube has a selection of videos about Ogoh-ogoh here.

Of course there are many other holidays and reasons for temple ceremonies, but it would take forever to explain, even if I could.

A little bit of this...

...and a little bit of that.

Just a catchup post, really. I really want to write a post about the Bali caste system and the complex system of names (yes, it is complex - a million Wayans is only a part of the story) as much to get things clear in my own head as any other reason. But it requires some research, so watch this space.

As mentioned in the photographs earlier, flags and bunting have started to appear. Independence Day is celebrated on 17 August, and as well as the profusion of red and white we have noticed that small marching contingents have begun practice-parading the streets. Groups of school students, led by a teacher (?) can be seen and heard along the roads as they march, sing and call 'left, left, left, right, left'  only in Bahasa Indonesia (kiri, kiri, kiri, kanan, kiri). As we still have two weeks to go, this nationalism can only increase. As well as ceremonial processions, these will add another layer of congestion to the traffic.

In the past week we have been down to the coast three times, for various reasons. You need to allow at least two hours from Ubud anywhere in the Denpasar vicinity although it's less than a 40km journey. Sadie has generally proved to be a reliable guide, with mercifully long periods of silence if the road is straight. But she hasn't been programmed to deal with ceremonies. And there are plenty. Some just involve a patient wait while the procession passes, others a complete detour. Sadie and both of us are equally discombobulated if this happens as we really have no idea where we are headed. Sadie wants us to get back exactly where we were but the pecalang will have none of it. So it's round and round we go through the back streets (Kerobokan yesterday) until we sight a road sign (rare) or some landmark that matches the physical map.

Never plan to be anywhere in a hurry if it involves driving. The Balinese don't speak of jam karet (rubber time) for nothing.

Seminyak is full of new hotel construction.  Quite amazing, given that occupancy rates are already low. It's always quite a relief to return to Ubud.  It has its problems, but it's still very green. Long may that continue.

Speaking of Independence Day, Betel Nut has selected this date to screen a film I had already read a lot about. It speaks volumes about how far things have come since the Soeharto era  that this will be happening. We will be there of course and you can expect a post.

The next few weeks will be busy with holidays. Idul Fitri (Lebaran, locally, Muslim or not) occurs later this week and the shops are marking the occasion with displays rather like Western Easter chocolate extravaganzas. Ubud seems strangely quiet. Walking down Hanoman last night after 9pm it was almost eerie in its emptiness, yet this is the high tourism season. Apparently there won't be a plane seat to anywhere else in Indonesia this week as many people return to their families for this holiday.

And in the village of Kedewatan (just around the corner) there will be a mass cremation of 60 people later in the month. We have passed the pavilion where the bulls are being made several times. Such a big ceremony is not uncommon. Ordinary people wait up to five years until they can afford to farewell their loved ones, and this way the ceremonial expenses are shared. It should be quite a spectacle.

I am working on the caste post, but it might take a while. I would normally be a bit more creative with image layout, but I am working in less than conducive circumstances, but hey, ho the impression is the thing.