All quiet now

It hasn't taken long for the streets to clear after the busyness of the past week. Banners have been dismantled and temporary structures removed even more quickly than they were put up. When we took Thando and Truth to the airport for their return flight to Harare, the new departure area was crazy busy. This airport has been open less than a month, and during the APEC madness more than 700 flights were cancelled and the airport closed for four days. In the midst of all this, the international departure area was moved from the old airport into the new, so teething problems are to be expected.

Now the first round of security checking begins even before check-in, so we made our farewells at the gate a little earlier than we thought. Less than a week after getting here, they are now home again. Talk about whirlwind!

If you are a writer's festival sort of a person, and many people are, you might want to consider visiting Ubud next October. The festival sessions are held in the area of the town known as Sanggingan, a little over a kilometer from the centre. That's no problem, as a regular shuttle runs from the Casa Luna restaurant down to the festival action throughout the day and transport is cheap at other times. But if you want to stay right in the midst of the bustle, here is an accommodation list of places between the Neka Museum and the Bintang Supermarket, all an easy walk to the main venues along Jalan Campuhan and Jalan Sanggingan.. Something here might suit your budget but, as you can imagine, rooms book up quickly with regulars securing their place a year ahead. Anything located in Penestanan would also be quite convenient but transport to and fro will probably be needed, as it would in the heart of Ubud. The walk from the centre is doable, but the middle of the day can get very hot and sticky, so closer is better.

Walkability, in no particular order, and without any particular recommendation: TripAdvisor can be a useful guide:

• Taman Indrakila, currently under renovation, and the website seems to be down, but look later.
• Kori Ubud
• Sunrise Villas. This certainly looks like the one, but no guarantee as they don't give exact address. If contacting them, best to ask about Festival proximity.
• Villa Sanggingan
• Anom Cottages
• Royal Pita Maha
• Uma Ubud
• Toko Toko Bungalows, no website
• Ananda
• Sunny Blow Cottages
• Anini Raka

If rates are quoted in rupiah, a very general rule of thumb is to subtract four zeros to reach a dollar figure. Thus, Rp400000 is close enough to $40 at the moment although the rate may vary, and if either currency takes a dive you will have to do your own calculations.

Closer to Ubud, but further from the Festival along Jl Campuhan is the Tjampuhan Hotel, but if you don't mind a walk, it's worth a look.

There, all the work done for you. You just need to come! Here's this year's program again as inspiration. See you in 2014. Exact dates are still to be announced so watch the website.

Over for another year

Did the gods not want this to end? A significant earth tremor just as the party started at Blanco Museum would suggest so. We have had about four since getting here in May, and this was the biggest, no doubt an aftershock from the 7.1 incident that hit the Philippines earlier in the day, with a growing death toll. We were busy helping Thando and Truth stock up on goodies for their return trip to Zimbabwe today, so didn't even notice but friends said that it had been a good one.

So the Festival has concluded for another year.If there is time to reflect further before we leave for home in 10 days (10 days!) I will, otherwise later, as I will keep this blog alive with information about tradition, culture and other aspects of Balinese life in the space between trips. For we will be back. And soon.

Of the almost-200 writers here this year we were able to see but a handful, but every session offered insight and often humour. Some highlights:

• Opening Ceremony at the Palace. An invitation event that had beautiful Balinese elements that was unfortunately spoiled by the ceaseless loud chatter of people at the back who didn't even stop for the Prince's welcome speech. I cannot imagine that they would be as rude in their own country.
• I had not heard of US-born writer David Vann before this Festival, but Jennifer Byrne's interview with him revealed a very funny, engaging man, whose bleak past could have led to a very different life. Fascinating.
• Grandma Bilawara Lee of the Larrakia Nation in northern Australia and Cok Sawitri discussing the wisdom of elders, particularly women, in traditional societies. By abbreviating the title Cokorda to 'Cok' this woman is playing down her royal status. She did, however, exercise her right to speak in high Balinese, but the things she had to say, particularly about the feminine, at times confounded her translator. She speaks perfectly good English, but made the point that in the ten years of this festival held in Bali, the Balinese language had never been used in a forum. She has put that situation to rights.
• The courage and humanity of people such as Romani Benjamin and Ben Quilty who, through the arts are making a difference to the lives of refugees and prisoners. 
• Continuing this theme:  Mexican journalist Lydia Cacho and Egyptian activist Mona Prince whose lives continue to be in danger because they speak out. Two extraordinarily courageous women.
• Ben Quilty again. This time as he spoke of his work as official war artist for the Australian Defence Forces in Afghanistan and his ongoing connection with the young soldiers who continue to serve there. Very moving. He kept apologising that he was an artist at a writer's festival so felt a bit fraudulent but the word pictures that he evoked were powerful.
• Out of Africa Night at Bar Luna. Fantastic music and poetry from Thando and other African men who currently reside in the island. The place was packed, but people still managed to dance.
• The premiere of the film Jalanan, made by Ubud-based film maker Daniel Ziv, which had just won an award as best-documentary at the Busan International Film Festival in Korea. The award was presented on the night, and Boni, Ho and Titi, the three young Jakarta buskers who were stars of the film, played afterwards. Here's a teaser of this entertaining but thought-provoking movie. The music that followed wasn't too shabby, either, and included Australian Clare Bowditch and an Indonesian rock group* that all the kids knew well and sang along with. The lyrics seemed very political, taking a strong anti-corruption stance. Fabulous night.

Of course there was more. Much more. But you will just have to come along to this exciting, stimulating festival yourselves. I plan to put up a list of nearby accommodation for anyone who is seriously considering the trip so watch this space. 

Now for those who have read all of this post, your reward is this video of our new friend Thando performing one of his poems, courtesy of another friend of his who just happens to be in Bali right now and took Thando and Truth out on a boat for the day yesterday. Thank you James Maiden.

Home to Africa by Thando Sibanda from James Maiden on Vimeo. *later found out it was the band Navicula. They were good!

UWRF

Taman Baca, Reading Garden

In every way the Writers and Readers Festival is the reason we are in Ubud. We have attended in previous years and found excellent accommodation close by, which is where we have been staying since May. Now the 10th anniversary 2013 Festival is about to start, and excitement levels are mounting.

Thousands of people will attend sessions - something like 25000 seats have been sold, but of course some of these will be people attending multiple sessions. Nevertheless, that's an influx of visitors and a great boost to the town's economy. Which was Janet deNeefe's intention when she founded the Festival immediately after the first bombing when tourists stopped coming here. I can't imagine her feelings when the second bombings took place soon after the 2005 event had concluded but it was all the more reason to carry on. Now UWRF is considered one of the premier international festivals of its kind.

This year more than 190 writers will be presenting; some are household names but many are not, and all the more interesting for that. Later I am off to the airport to greet arriving presenters and welcome them to Bali.

The streets are bedecked and this time on Saturday they will be teeming. Tonight there will be a Hindu blessing ceremony, tomorrow night we are lucky enough to be invited to the official opening at the Palace followed by a gala dinner. Then it's go, go, go.

Eddie and I both volunteered as soon as we got here in May and we have been helping with the programme and presenting authors and their books at the Bar Luna literary evenings. We have seen first-hand how brilliantly the programming staff have been juggling events and dealing with disappointment*. And how amazing the volunteer coordinators have been as they communicate with people around the world about their roles and as they have coped with last minute changes. Now I will sit back and enjoy the delicious dilemma of selecting what to attend, but Eddie's volunteering continues as he will be helping out with book launches and workshops over the four days.

Let the Festival begin! Will report as I can.

* It's a two-edged sword when you are smart enough to programme Man Booker Prize nominees before they are nominated. It means that when they are, they can't attend the Festival! Everyone is delighted for the authors, but disappointed for the Festival.So no Tash Aw, no Ruth Ozeki. This year, anyway.

Volunteer briefing, this morning

Box office will be busy

This building and grounds needs to be ready for action in 24 hours, and will be.

Sorry about that

Second post of the month, second apology, but we have popped our heads briefly out of the cone of silence. The past few weeks have been far busier than we could have anticipated. Not only have we enjoyed the company of family, there have been myriad social events. We are also making some big decisions, so talking, researching, emailing and considering has engaged our time. More of those developments another time.

With the Festival starting on Friday, we have been fortunate to start the partying early. Who knew that the new premises of Bali Adventure Tours were so, well, lush? We certainly do now, as a welcome reception for sponsors and volunteers was held there last week. The drinks and food foreshadowed many other lavish affairs to come over the next few days, but as few had been to this newly opened venue, the style came as something of an extremely pleasant surprise.

No doubt the hotels that cater for the rich and famous, and there are a few in Ubud, also enjoy stunning views, but they are exclusive. Any lucky rafter who finishes their adrenaline-filled whitewater experience will end up here. Not quite where we were - that was the posh part of the eight levels (four underground). They will be even higher* so will probably have an even better view over the gorges than ours, but it's difficult to imagine. And we have to imagine, as it had become dark when we passed this area on the way to see the helipad.

Did I mention the helipad? We were in the right place at the right time when the entrepreneurial owner** asked three of us if we would like to see it. A touch James Bondish with the press button retractable roof. He explained that he believes Ubud is ready for a high-end space such as this centre. Goodness only knows what it cost, but it certainly is impressive, and you would have no idea from the road.

This is not the only festival-related socialising we have done recently, either. The expat life!

As I have said, the Festival begins on Friday with the opening ceremony, although a Balinese ceremony and blessing will be held on Thursday night. Banners are fluttering all over town and the writers have started arriving, with the biggest number from all over the world due on Thursday. I am going to the airport in a meet-and-greet capacity in the afternoon. More on the exciting days ahead soon.

* No building in Bali is permitted to be higher than the coconut palms after the 1960s architectural disaster of the Bali Beach Hotel. The gods had their revenge later when practically the whole building was destroyed by fire in 1993 with a mysterious outcome. When you have been here a while, you begin to take such strange happenings as quite normal.
**He is also responsible for wonderful Taro Elephant Safari Park, where there is a rescue and breeding program for Sumatran elephants.

Still can't do links.

Ubud Writers and Readers Festival

With the Festival office very close by, I have been lucky enough to help out a bit in the frantic weeks before program launch. A bit of editing, some reading and doing the occasional presentation about visiting authors at Bar Luna.

We have been to the Festival in previous years, but as observers and listeners. It's a wonderful, intimate event and has been ranked among the top writing festivals in the world. So the opportunity this year to take part in a tiny bit of the process has been especially interesting. We will also be helping over the four days.

The full 2013 program has now been revealed and, as usual, the lineup is eclectic and interesting. Some big names, some relatively unknown ones. All will bring their talents to make four days of stimulating conversation. What I have noted before, and I am sure that it will be the same in 2013, is that even the most famous of names leaves their ego at home. You can get up close and personal with some of the most interesting people in the writing world, and the regional writers from Indonesia, Burma, the Philippines are always fascinating to listen to.

This year marks the 10th anniversary of the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival. It was created as a positive response to the first bombing, an initiative to bring visitors back to an island that was suffering economically. The event has probably grown way beyond Janet de Neefe's imagining.

Check out the program and if you love books and writing, think about joining us in Ubud. If not this year, maybe next. I doubt if you would ever regret it.

That was the week...

Candidasa

Just for the record (ours, and for your possible interest) in the past seven days we have

• caught up with friends visiting from our small town in Western Australia, including lunch at Murni's Warung, and meeting other members of their family
• caught up with the family and friends of friends
• been in the winner's circle at two quiz nights
• enjoyed a Balinese birthday party (another, not the one with the dancing) with off-a-normal-menu food, such as goose sate and goose lawar
• got ourselves some transport, and therefore travel freedom
• found a dentist
• enjoyed another informative pre-Festival night at Bar Luna, hearing about programmed authors Tash Aw, Diana Greentree, Pallavi Aiyer and our friend, Kirsty Murray
• have been to Candidasa on a stakeout for a more informed trip to the coast later
• explored the Ubud hinterland, including tiny beautiful villages with narrow roads spread with the drying rice harvest.

All's well with our world.

Bar Luna

Bit of a literary hub, Bar Luna. Situated in Jl Goutama, it's the de facto Festival club during UWRF week, with book launches, drinks, talks and just conversation with other attendees. But each Thursday night (and other nights too we discovered) they hold a literary event. The bar is one of the enterprises of Australian expat, long-term Ubud resident, and honorary Balinese, Janet DeNeefe. Janet's name and Ubud are synonymous and she has been inspirational for many young Balinese women in showing them just what is possible. She founded UWRF in 2004 as a positive response to the terrible Bali bombings that took so many lives, Western and Balinese, and which all but destroyed the tourist industry. UWRF is now considered to be one of the best literary festivals in the world.

Last night was the first of a series of talks previewing writers who will attending the 10th anniversary festival this year. Called Festival 4Play, four writers and their work are profiled. Not everyone who is invited to Ubud is a household name. That's part of the charm, discovering wonderful new talent, especially from SE Asia.

So last night we heard about:

• Ian Burnet and his beautiful book Spice Islands, a historical account of the trade that changed the world.
• Carina Hoang's Boat People: personal stories from the Vietnamese exodus 1975-1999. We were fortunate to have M. Bundhowi present. His photographs from the period is one in the book and he now travels the world as a  peace photographer, having long since discarded his boyhood wish to be a 'war' photographer. He told his story with grace and charm.
• Pat Grant, a young cartoonist (his description) whose graphic novel Blue is causing a bit of a sensation.
  
  So far, one Javanese and three Australians, but finally
• Danny Morrison from Ireland. Two very different titles - Then the Walls Came Down, a series of (one-sided) letters to his partner from his time in prison during the troubles and Rudi: in the shadow of Knulp, which the reviewer described as the best piece of fiction by a living writer he had read in the past ten years. Quite a wrap. Having recently been in Ireland, these were of particular interest and have been added to the TBR pile.

But wait, there's more. Becky Wicks is back in town and on Tuesday night she'll be talking about her latest adventures as recounted in Latinalicious while another four books and their authors get the treatment on Thursday. Somehow I have got in on the act, so I hope I can do Lionel Shriver justice.

So much to do and, fortunately, plenty of time to do it in.

Living the (expat) dream

We've had a taste of how good it can get. Mind you, we love our simple life, but there's no doubt that it's Bali on a budget. We have everything we need here* but last night we saw another lifestyle altogether. And I have to confess to just a teensy bit of villa envy.

The lovely couple that we caught up with at the Villa Kitty do** spend about 9 months here in Ubud and only about three at home in Queensland. They have a villa in a prime location in Penestanan, a stone's throw from the action but very private down a laneway that backs onto a rice field. And what can I say but it's gorgeous. They have done a wonderful job in creating their Ubud home and even have two beautiful Villa Kitty cats. When they arrived as youngsters, the cats spent a few hours exploring the lane, visiting the warung on the corner, dispatching the rats in the roof and haven't been outside since. They sit in the doorway and watch the world, but are now homebodies. When their humans are in Australia they are cared for by the one staff member, a delightful young man who does everything needed to keep the villa ticking over.

It's possible, but not easy, to purchase property outright here. You will see many places available but they are usually leasehold. The length of the lease will vary and therefore the upfront cost. A longer lease will be 25 years with a renewal option; shorter ones may be as few as 7 years. Not having outright ownership is a stumbling block for many who are used to other models but, as our new friends commented, their lease will see them out and they will have had the pleasure of the lifestyle for the amount that they paid.

Our meal was in a local cafe that has a strong expat presence. It's part-owned by an Australian, with food geared towards a Western palate, but certainly tasty enough and well priced. We met a few people and have been invited to the notorious expat Flyday night quiz at the Fly Cafe. By all accounts this is a Very Fun Night.

Tonight Bar Luna is giving a preview of the 2013 Writers Festival as part of their regular Thursday night literary event. I know that they have secured Lionel Shriver*** and Deborah Moggach as two of the headline attractions. But the afternoon rain has been very steady and if it doesn't ease as it usually does, we'll stay in.

The image above is not of their villa - I wouldn't be so rude, it's an Internet one - but theirs does have a swimming pool. lovely gardens, open plan pavilions ... sigh.

*And sorry, not telling
**Raised Rp 20,000,000 or $2000, so that will help a great deal.
*** Have just finished reading Big Brother, and still digesting it, so to speak.