Yeh Pulu

It is a week or more since we visited Yeh Pulu in the village of Bedulu, but lack of time has meant that some catch up posts are needed.

Situated just beyond the Elephant Cave at World Heritage listed Goa Gajah on the Gianyar road, Yeh Pulu is not easy to find. We had almost given up when we noticed a fluttering computer printout indicating that it was down a road that looked as if it led nowhere in particular. Later, leaving in another direction, we saw this lovely sign, so it all depends on how you approach.

We had read about the site in Lonely Planet and seen images on the Lempad film that contained historic footage of the artist at the site. A small entrance fee and a sarong is requested, and like so many of these sites, a local guide seeks to offer interpretation of what we are seeing for a small fee. Made spoke excellent English and was very informative.

Yeh Pulu was unearthed in the 1920s and is the site of a 25 metre relief wall that depicts Balinese village life in the 14th century. The short walk down from the carpark is clean and beautifully landscaped, helped by the funds generated at the entrance, and contains a small cafe and just the one seller of artefacts, unlike the hassle you can experience at Goa Gajah.

At the time of discovery Balinese people had things on their mind other than history, so it was not until several decades later, when archaeologists documented the site, that its religious significance was realised. A holy spring flows through the site which includes 14th century bathing areas clearly marked for men and women.

An elderly woman mangku was in attendance, and blessed us as we entered. The feeling is extremely spiritual and its isolation and lack of visitors adds to the atmosphere. Made explained that the woman's father, also a priest, had no sons so she inherited the role. It's unusual for women to be priests, but obviously possible.

Made speculated at what else might lie hidden beneath the sawah. He explained that 10 years ago another site was found about two kilometres away and offered to take us in the cool of one morning. We have his mobile (HP here, for 'hand phone'; 'mobil' means car) number and will contact him to do so. The newest discovery is, according to Made, even more spectacular than Yeh Pulu and consists of four walls of reliefs creating an enclosed area.

 We are glad we persevered with the search.