Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Tears. .. of joy and pride

As a teacher in another life I have attended a few graduations, so I understand that tears are par for the course. It is a significant rite of passage for those young people who are about to move into a world full of unknowns. But I have never attended a graduation ceremony as emotional as the one we went to yesterday.

For the past few years that we have stayed in Ubud we have been aware of nearby Campuhan College, and regularly greeted the students as we passed. We have even eavesdropped on lessons and enjoyed some of the fun that they all seemed to be having. We had no reason to think, nor the wit to enquire, that there was anything particularly special going on.

At breakfast one morning last week we started chatting to a lovely woman and her teenage daughter and were surprised to learn that they had travelled from New Zealand specifically to attend yesterday's graduation from the College. As a sponsor of one of the students, she had been invited and she wanted her daughter to understand what education means to those who can't take it for granted. She suggested that we come along too.

The event was held in the beautiful Neka Museum, a venue we were familiar with as it is central to the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival. We were warmly welcomed by co-founder Wayan Rustiasa and invited to have refreshments before taking our seats. As the ceremony progressed, we learned:
  • The college has been running since 2007, under an initiative of the Karuna Bali Foundation to address the disastrous economic impact on the island following the second bombing in 2005.
  • The program gives young people, who would never otherwise have the opportunity, skills and training that will ensure their employability and break the cycle of poverty.
  • Selection of students is made after recommendation from their school or community about the potential of the student.
  • Only 24 places are available for the one-year program and they are keenly sought. Offers are made following several interviews and home visits to ensure that a selected student will receive the support they need to succeed.
  • There is no cost whatever to the student or their family as each student is fully funded by donation to the Foundation.
  • The program includes training in information technology and English language, with practical design outcomes and employment placements.
The graduating students were seated to the left of the stage, and to the right sat 24 shy young people who we learned were the new intake. As the ceremony unfolded and highlights of the last 12 months shown on a student-made video, the faces of the new students, anticipating the year ahead, were a joy to behold. In the audience were the proud parents of both groups - those who were able to come from their village for the afternoon. 

Young girls we had seen arrive on motorbikes each day transformed into beautiful dancers to entertain us; young men into not-so-beautiful dancers much to the hilarity of all.

The quality of the work on display, from graphic design, photography and video production was impressive, as were the English language skills.

The pride of these village teenagers as they reflected on the transformation in their lives in just 12 months, the confidence they now displayed and the tears of joy on their parents' faces made this an unforgettable afternoon. Our own tears flowed when we were each presented with a flower by a student in appreciation for just being there and when one of the parents spoke to say how grateful he was that his child had been given this opportunity. My own stumbling efforts at communication in Bahasa Indonesia failed me completely when I was taken to meet some of the parents by their offspring - we were all too overwhelmed. The values that underpin the curriculum were very much in evidence in every young graduate, fine young people now with leadership skills as well as practical. We have seen first hand that the value of education can never be over estimated.
Presentation
Certificates
The 2013-14 intake
Of course we will now become involved in any way we can. The beautiful thing is that we will be here again next July and will attend the graduation of those shy kids on the right of the stage, who by then will be bursting with confidence and self esteem.

Some of the 2013-14 intake are still short of sponsors. I know there are now readers of this blog far and wide (and I thank you) - perhaps someone might be able to help. Please read their stories and if you are able to make a difference to one young person's life, you will do so knowing that the appreciation is profound. And perhaps you will be able to attend the 2014 graduation ceremony and shed a few tears of your own.
A proud and grateful parent









Sunday, July 28, 2013

Traffic madness

An impulsive decision (what other kind is there?) to go down to Canggu last week required the services of the sat nav. We have apologised to Sadie and reinstated her, despite the occasional lapse in directions. She is by far the best of a very bad English-speaking bunch. One day we will put the Indonesian directions on - that will be a challenge!

The road down passed through beautiful rice fields and through the regency and administrative town of Tabanan. As Sadie requires specific, rather than general, instructions, once we could see the water on her screen map we switched her off and took our chances. The first road took us through a beautiful village where we arrived just as the Pecalan were halting through traffic. Our reward was a large ceremonial procession which took several minutes to pass.
The beach at the end of this road was deserted. A small temple stood on an outcrop and the seas were turbulent. Spider crabs were washed up on to the temple walls and scurried back to the sand. It was overcast and a little ominous, but peaceful.

A further five kilometers or so to the south is Canggu proper. Narrow roads, many cars and scooters and villas galore. With many Muslims in this area (still an unusual sight in Ubud) we seemed to have struck a prayer time as most of the scooters and walkers seemed be coming from, or going to, the mosque. It is still Ramahdan (local spelling) and the big holiday of Idul Fitri to mark the end of the fasting month will be celebrated throughout Indonesia as public holidays on August 8 and 9.  Although Bali is a Hindu island, it is a province of Muslim Indonesia, and will also mark the occasion.
We gave up trying to get near a beach and turned around (not so easy) and headed back to find some food. The Canggu Deli was just that - nowhere to sit and eat - but somehow we found a parking spot and walked. Green Ginger looked nice, and I remembered that it had a very favourable mention in Lonely Planet. Tasty (very) vegetarian. No sooner had we sat down than the owner walked in and went straight to Eddie, greeting him like an old friend. My mystification was abated when they explained that this was Jonathon (another Aussie) who Eddie had met several times in Ubud when walking the ricefields. With cafes in Seminyak and Canggu, Jonathon has turned his attention to Ubud, and his newest venture will open soon only a short distance from where we stay. Looking forward to its opening, as the standard should be high if his Canggu place is an indication.
Green Ginger's coffee, cardamom & ginger cake with lemon icing

We needed to get back home as we had promised to pick up some friends at 6.30 for the Friday quiz. We should have just headed back the way we came, but Sadie had other ideas. It was obviously time to experience city driving as she led us back through Kerobokan (it's a village too as well as a prison) and the place we had been avoiding, Denpasar.

We'd heard it was bad, and I can confirm that we weren't lied to. Scooters passing on the left, on the right and coming straight ahead on the wrong side. Why stick to two marked lanes when four, or even five, would be better? Need to park? Just stop. And what can you do when you need to turn right than block all oncoming traffic. After a while we just went with the flow, keeping alert, jostling where necessary and remaining fearless. It was all so absurd that we ended up laughing, but it was a great relief to finally emerge onto the exit that would take us back up the hill to home. Now that we have done it and emerged unscathed we will go back down and explore the capital another time. We had feared we might not keep our appointment as quiz transporters but in the end there was even time to spare.

The language of the horn in the city is different from country driving, but in both places it is rare to hear it used aggressively. On country roads there is the 'I am about to overtake you so don't move into my path' beep; the 'just letting you know I am coming around this blind corner towards you' beep and the 'excuse me, dog, I need you to move from the middle of the road' beep, which may or may not be heeded. In the case of the latter, the driver is required to manouevre around the animal in any way possible. In the city none of these can possibly apply, so it's more of the 'there's not a lot of room in any direction between your vehicle and mine, so we'll just keep an eye out' beep. It's all very cordial and a great lesson in patience. It will feel odd to go back to driving in Australia with its endemic road rage, especially in the city.


Saturday, July 27, 2013

The herons of Petulu

We have finally witnessed the return of the herons to the village of Petulu Ganung. This phenomenon has been occurring, according to the village leaflet, since November 7, 1965. Yes, as precise as that. In the previous weeks the villagers had been partaking in many ceremonies, as they felt that the gods needed appeasement. The political situation in Indonesia, including Bali, was horrendous. Many thousands died on the island but the people of the village feel they were spared because of the lavish ceremony they had performed earlier despite their poverty. The birds arrived soon after, bringing with them prosperity from the attraction they have created.

A small entry fee is requested as you enter the village. The birds start to roost from about 5pm onwards, first a few, gradually increasing in number as the day draws to a close.

On the day we went there were few tourists: a small group of friendly schoolgirls from Denpasar, accompanied by their biology teacher and a backpacking couple from New Zealand. Made, a young man from the village, offered an insight into the phenomenon in excellent English. He told us that going to University was never an option for him, but he taught himself English at home using any textbook he could get his hands on. He is obviously a quick learner. A beautiful black Balinese kitten decided to join us with a miaow bigger than himself.


The leaflet advises that the birds 'populate once a year by egging process' and that the 'egging season falls on November December'. I quote with affection at the quaintness of expression. Perhaps Made should have advised on the translation. From nest building in November to March, when the chicks can fly, the birds stay put in Petulu.

As we walked back through the village at about 6 everyday life continued as it has done for centuries, including the men gossiping as they groomed their prize fighting cocks.

Petulu Ganung is about three kilometres north of Ubud. To reach it you drive through sawah to the village of Junjungan on an interesting and beautiful journey that passes a bridge to nowhere
and the now famous Not For Sale art installation. When we first saw this in a walk last year, it was arresting in its simplicity and powerful statement. Perhaps this was only ever intended to be temporary and the materials used not durable, as it has changed, become busier in its font and adornment. It has become quite an attraction though, and only yesterday a big concert was being held there.
Now
Last year

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Gunung Kawi

Lonely Planet's 2013 guide to Bali has become a glovebox companion. We have tried to do without it, but it provides a focus for our meanderings and a source of inspiration for possible day trips.

Having read about the 11th century temple at Tampak Siring, Gunung Kawi, a visit seemed essential and we invited a couple of other Australians along for the ride.

The car has satellite navigation, with a choice of three equally irritating navigators. We tried American Sadie (our name for her) for a while but her frantic admonitions to turn left, when it wasn't possible to do so, finally led us to try the gentler British tones of Godfrey. His appalling pronunciation of Indonesian place names meant that we lasted less than two kilometers with him, which left Kylie. Australian. Australia. Bali. Our backyard practically, surely her pronunciation would be more polished? Sadly, no. It seems that for the past three months we have been living in a place called Youbood. Painful to hear.

Kylie also proved to be unreliable. Having keyed the destination of Gunung Kawi into her system, she proceeded to take us in what we felt sure was the opposite direction. Foolishly we trusted her for a while, but we had no idea where we were.

Our companions didn't mind. They had barely been beyond Monkey Forest Road, so they were happy to see countryside, and to be honest, so were we.

We wandered for a while and when we reached Gianyar we knew where we were and which road would take us to Tampak Siring, the town where the temple is located. By this time the rain was bucketing. Would we? Wouldn't we? We were here, so why not.

Here's where I would augment Lonely Planet for anyone who intends visiting. We knew that a sarong and sash were essential when entering a temple, and we were quite happy to purchase some. We will keep them in the car for future occasions. But LP says that they can also be hired, and there was no evidence that this was the case. We were beset by sellers in the carpark and, even after bargaining,  paid over the odds. It's all relative, of course, and we haven't ended up with something we don't like or won't wear again. But as we headed off towards the (unsignposted) temple a couple of hundred metres away, we found there were dozens of shops where you could have named your price. And at the entrance gate, yes, you could hire. So be strong, bide your time and give some of the others a look in.

Despite the rain, the temple was magnificent. Set in a river valley, it is one of Bali's oldest monuments. The rock face has been carved to create shrines, eight metres in height. According to LP, legend has it that they were the work of Kebo Iwa's fingernails and completed in a single night.


This awe-inspiring place will receive another visit on a day when the sun is shining and we are wearing our sarongs and sash even as we leave the car. The 270-something steps proved more of a challenge coming back up than going down.

Today there have been many ceremonies. As I write this, I can hear chanting and gamelan in the distance, and the offerings we have seen all day have been lavish. Women were worshipping at Gunung Kawi and on the drive home temples along the road were full of men, women and children in traditional dress. Lovely to observe.

Unable to add links right now, but will do so asap. Done.


Monday, July 22, 2013

Wayang Kulit

Ubud Community, the helpful publication available each month from the Information Centre opposite the Palace, tells us that the Tumpek Wayang ceremony was observed last Saturday. This is the day on the Balinese calendar when offerings are made particularly to shadow puppets but also musical instruments and dance equipment.The puppets are removed from their storage boxes and placed on a platform as if being used for a performance. Offerings are then placed and prayers given for the puppets to maintain taksu, the spiritual power of Bali.

Eddie's walking companion and friend Made is in Java at the moment so we were unable to ask him about this ceremony but a few weeks ago we learned that as well as being a celebrated dancer, he is also a master puppeter who has performed elsewhere in Asia and also in Europe.

We attended one of his performances soon after. Shadow puppets are traditionally Javanese, but the Balinese have their own version of Wayang Kulit, telling Hindu stories from the Ramayana. On the night we attended there was a large party of Indian people, no doubt expecting their traditional epic to be as they knew it. It probably was. In parts. But Made and his co-story teller made it their own adding contemporary touches. Ronaldo made an appearance at one stage, appropriately for soccer-mad Bali.

This particular tale was essentially the story of Rwa Bineda. A handout helped us keep track of the story and the cast of characters (and their shadow shapes) that included Rangda, the wicked witch often depicted in art and the Barong, part dragon, part Pekinese dog and the force for all that is good.

The narrative proceeded in three acts, told in Balinese, Bahasa Indonesia, snatches of English and another ancient language that Made mentioned, but whose name I have forgottten. A gamelan accompaniment added additional colour to the already colourful storytelling.

At the end of the show the Indian people flocked to the back of the screen (the performance had been lit by a traditional oil-burning lamp) and excitedly asked to look at the puppets used in the performance and their unused favourite characters still in the box. Lack of tradition was no concern to them at all. They had a great time and so did we.
.

Next time we will watch from behind the scenes.

By the way, we are in the dry season. It isn't.




Sunday, July 21, 2013

As we were driving

Snapped from the passenger side. What's not to love? Not the best quality, but you get the idea.
Mount Agung behind the football field

It's sweeping day at school

Roadside fruit stall

Travelling salesman

Ceremony transport

Girls on way to ceremony

Traffic control. Note the keris at his waist, which signifies warrior caste. More on that at another time.



Friday, July 19, 2013

Rabies

We saw this sign at a major intersection yesterday after spending some time in the city of Gianyar. Interesting then to read when we got home that a rabid dog had bitten five people in the town only a day or two earlier.

It was hoped that the disease would be eradicated by 2015. A few months ago we watched the vaccination program in action on Sanur beach, but dogs sporting the yellow collar are fewer up here.

We have had the immunisation. Expensive, but we felt worth it for an extended stay, especially as Eddie's walks take him into some remote villages. But we are not bullet proof and we don't take risks. However cute and healthy-looking the street dog is there is no feeding or petting, and monkeys are best viewed from afar. As an aside, Monkey Forest Road in the late afternoon provides many photo opportunities if you don't feel inclined to go right into the forest. But walk there. Gridlock is normal.

Gianyar, as everywhere, is full of dogs. Even though it is the administrative capital of the regency, in our several hours of wandering we saw no other foreigner, but plenty of puppies. We did make a major parking blunder, overstaying our spot which we now understand turns into motorcycle-only at 1pm but we were allowed to escape the barrier (which wasn't there when we parked) after smiling, shrugging, apologising and inflating the Rp2000 normal fee to Rp10000.

Had we known about the rabies incident we still would have gone to Gianyar. And we will return soon to visit the night market (pasar malam), which is reputedly one of the best on the island. The day market is terrific - a genuine market for the people, full of, well everything. From fresh and cooked food to hardware and ornamental fish.


Shops along the main road seem to specialise in gold jewellery and traditional clothing. The longer I am here the more I want a kebaya (lace blouse worn with sash and sarong) of my own. I will have to have one made though as most Balinese women are petite.
We spent some time at the park watching a training drill for a youth group and also the kites. It's kite season and that is worth a post in its own right.

Our park snack comprised an unhealthy but tasty box of 10 small doughnuts that cost all of Rp8000; about 80 cents. We tried to share with some of the kite boys but we have noticed before that Balinese children won't accept such offers, and these boys were no exception.











And Gianyar has a Hardy's! Previously we had gone down to Sanur for my department store fix, but here is one closer to home. Going into this cluttered, cheap-as-chips shop is like stepping into a time warp. It's great! Not high fashion, but functional clothes and shoes at prices paid by local people. Best of all, brand makeup at the same sort of price.

Rabies or no, we'll go back to Gianyar.


The road we decided to explore on the way home took us to Pantai Lebih, a black sand beach with views of Nusa Penida and Ganung Agung. Sanur (with different sand) must have been like this once. Two cremation towers were bobbing around in the surf.

Did I mention that it's great to have a car?

 .

Wednesday, July 17, 2013

A walk through Indonesia

Yesterday we traversed Indonesia from east to west and also through time. The journey started last week  on the way to Candidasa. We had passed a sign saying that the Indonesian Cultural Heritage Center was up a side road. Interesting, we thought, we might come back later and check that out. We probably would have at some stage, but yesterday morning in my inbox the latest newsletter from Bali Update included this item. That clinched it - a brand new museum to be visited before the crowds discovered it, and only about a half-hour drive away.

We weren't really sure what to expect. As we approached the site it was clear that it was still unfinished as workers were visible everywhere, however the welcome at the front desk was warm and clearly they were open for business. Even better, entry* is half price for the first month.

As we were guided down a sweeping driveway we could see that initial appearances were indeed deceiving. Fifteen hectares have been devoted to fulfilling a long-held dream for the creator,  Ir. Santosa Senengsyah, and no expense has been spared. We got the impression that only a few people had been through in the short time (mere days) that the centre had been open as our welcome could not have been warmer. The two charming young people who were appointed as our guides turned out to be Grace and Edward, two of Pak Santosa's four children who share his vision. No wonder they were so well informed!

The concept is grand in every way: to document and preserve the cultural heritage of Indonesia's 34 provinces from East Nusa Tenggara to Aceh.** Why Bali for this project? Because it is the province visited by most people, and therefore the most suitable place for a major attraction.*** Why in Siden village, east of Gianyar? Because East Bali needs an economic stimulus to draw people to the area, and the centre will provide work for 200 people.

As Grace and Edward took is through the complex we passed Stone Age and Bronze Age Indonesia, and a scale model of Borobodur before reaching the first of many small compounds containing housing typical of the region. The diversity of the archipelago became quickly apparent, from the huts of West Papua, the longhouses of Kalimantan to the heavily Dutch-influenced dwellings of old Jakarta. One (and unfortunately I have forgotten from where) is one of only three examples of a particular style of housing still in existence. The other two, in situ, are in such poor condition that they are unlikely to survive. Conservation, preservation, information, inspiration should be the mantra of Taman Nusa.



At one stage (and we had been there for ages) Grace took a call and I had to smile as I heard her say (in Bahasa Indonesia) that 'we were in Kalimantan'. I was wishing. Part of Pak Santosa's vision is to inspire people to appreciate the rich culture of provinces other than Bali and encourage them to visit. The bug had already bitten both of us. Why hadn't we seen more than Lombok and Bali? Well, it's not too late.

As we continued our hands-on tour, visiting dwellings of many shapes and sizes furnished appropriately, we were entertained by traditional music and dance of the relevant region. Refreshments can be obtained at any of 11 stops with toilet facilities along the way.


Not long after Grace's telephone call we were joined by a man who she introduced as her father, the person behind the dream. As if it were not honour enough to be shown around by the younger generation, we were then accompanied by Pak Santosa himself. His passion is evident in his words as well as his actions in creating this marvellous site. He revealed that there happened to be a TV crew there and would we consent to be interviewed? No hesitation if it was to be a radio interview for me, but I had lost all pretence of cool, calm elegance in the heat and vanity demanded that only Eddie face the cameras. He didn't have to feign enthusiasm in his assessment of Taman Nusa.

In an unexpected and delightful turn of events, Pak Santosa asked us to join him, his wife and all four children (Alison and Robert as well as Grace and Edward) to be their guests for lunch in the very beautiful restaurant. Of course, it was delicious Indonesian food, and very welcome.

I could go on for pages. There is still a lot to be done before the vision is fully realised, but in many respects this was a terrific time to visit. It was possible to see in the site what was evident in Pak Santosa's vision - how much had been achieved, in his country and his project,  but also what the future holds. A library and a museum are yet to be completed  as is a model railway housed in a replica of Stasiun Kota Jakarta, an art deco building. Edward described what was unique about the model railway but I didn't really appreciate the finer details, not being a railway buff.


We came away not only impressed with what has been achieved so far at Taman Nusa, but with the unity of a family determined to achieve the dream of a charming, humble man. What a gift for Bali. What a gift for Indonesia. Australians need to know much more than we do about our nearest and largest neighbour. Here is an excellent starting point.

Eddie had his 10 seconds of fame. They didn't quite get his name right though, so that's probably the end of his TV career. But the program did Taman Nusa proud. It deserves to become a premier tourist attraction.

Another of those special days! We keep having them. And our thanks to the family for their generous hospitality.


* Normal adult admission is USD50. It may sound a lot but you could spend five hours here easily. Anything less than two hours could not possibly do Taman Nusa justice. Our half-price admission proved to be excellent value, but we would not have regretted paying full price once we had experienced all that was on offer.
**The provinces are further divided into regencies, of which Bali has eight. The Gianyar regency includes Ubud, but the administrative capital is the city of Gianyar.
*** And a far more relevant attraction than a current controversial proposal to reclaim part of Benoa Bay for a F1 racing circuit and Disneyland. There is a lot of opposition. Fortunately.