In the shadow of the volcano

Before starting on a backlog of posts, the most recent happenings first. We are just back in Ubud after spending several days in Amed on the east coast. Our visit in March last year to the Lipah section of the villages (that together are called Amed) was cut short by a cyclone that ripped the roof from our hotel and left everyone without electricity for days. We stuck it out for as long as we could but eventually ended up in Sanur.

This time we were supposed to go last week but Eddie's heatstroke delayed us. Unfortunately, I fell ill - for the first time in the last four months – on the morning that we set off for a second attempt. Is there something about Amed? All the symptoms of flu for me, but an Apotek in Amlapura gave me something that I am sure helped. No way were we deferring again.

Amed, as the area is called, rests in the shadow of Gunung Agung, the holy mountain and still active volcano. Agung last erupted in 1963, killing more than a thousand people and wiping out entire villages. Fifty years later, it could happen again, but daily life goes on as it has for centuries. Eddie checked out trekking opportunities but will go with a guide from Ubud when he does the sunrise climb.

Amed is strung along about 14km of coast, from Jemiluk in the north down to Lipah and beyond. This time we stayed in Jemiluk, probably the busiest village of the sleepy strip. In contrast to the more developed parts of Bali, Amed has flaky electricity, flakier wifi, no ATM within 40km and no street lighting. It's not quite how Bali 'used to be' but it's closer than other parts that attract tourists. Most of the visitors (and there weren't all that many) appeared to be young European travellers, keen on the diving and snorkelling that the area is famous for.

Each of the villages lines a very narrow strip between the beach and the dry hills at the back. Accommodation on the beach side can have flat access, but nothing across the road does, so you need to be prepared for some mountain goating up and down steps. Even on the water side, many small hotels and home stays require a steep walk down to the beach. If you are planning on a visit, it's worth finding out what is involved if this is important.

Fortunately sitting in an air conditioned car is no hardship even for someone sniffling and sneezing, so exploration wasn't out of the question. Eddie snorkelled while I slept off some of the symptoms, and then we headed south down the coast road towards Amlapura, the pretty capital of Karangasem regency. As the last of the development faded away the road became narrower, the villages obviously poorer and we got the glimpse of how Bali probably was before tourism. Not many cars venture that way, we gathered, given the curiosity that the bules engendered.

When this road met the main traffic again it was not long before we came across a spectacular group of buildings which turned out to be the original version at Ujung, of the far more famous Tirta Gangga water palace built by the king of Karangasem. The fading beauty showed just how lovely this must have been when first built in 1901. Since ravaged by the volcanic fallout of 1963 and a later earthquake, the grounds have become a venue for local families and people exercising. The King went on to build Tirta Gangga, where his descendants still spend several months a year as respite from their residence in The Netherlands.

Back in Amed we enjoyed some of the best food we have had in the past few months. Simple and fresh – a winning combination. Can recommend Warung Pantai (right on the beach), Warung Enak (organic and delicious) and The Grill for superbly grilled, freshly caught seafood. All fabulous and all recommended to us by the very helpful Liselotte at Geria Gira Shanti, where we stayed.

The next day, still hugging the coast, but this time going north, we spent a few hours driving across the top of the island towards Singaraja. We were there on Sunday, but I haven't had time to write about that trip yet. An excellent road all the way was shaded by a canopy of trees for nearly all its length. Again, quiet villages, beautiful scenery, including Agung from a different angle,

and little traffic. The quietness could change dramatically if plans to build a second international airport in north Bali are realised. Access to these lovely beaches will be so much easier and perhaps north Bali will become as crowded as the south, with a reproduction of all the problems. As guests in this country, taking advantage of the benefits of tourist infrastructure, we are not in a position to comment except to hope that the Balinese people will become masters of their own future.

Two more highlights on the road home today: the lovely Tirta Gangga Water Palace and Bali Asli. When the King had to leave Ujung, he went bigger and better to create Tirta Gangga, a must on most itineraries, although today it was quiet. In most of these venues you can expect to pay a small admission fee and have a local guide attach himself offering to show you around. We have found them to be both courteous and informative, and realise that they are only trying to make a living, so it's best to be prepared to pay them for their time. Not much to us, a lot to them. The pictures speak for themselves, although for such a famous place we found the signposting to be light on and the entry point unclear, suggesting that most people come with pre-organised transport.

We had heard about Bali Asli, Australian chef Penny Williams' dream restaurant in the hills. Not easy to find, but we did, and it was all that we had been told. Beautiful building, gorgeous views, and when Penny herself arrived, we had a very friendly chat. We only had morning tea, but it was scrumptious Balinese delights with an iced organic coffee. We'll be back, perhaps to do one of Penny's cooking classes.

But it's good to be home, where the welcome is warm and the wifi works. Our deferred trip meant that we missed the temple anniversary celebrations here yesterday but the grounds looked beautiful and the staff were still in temple dress when we got back. And it's only 210 days until it happens again.