Risky business

Bali has been receiving a bad press lately, particularly in Australia. The tragic death on Sunday of a Perth woman has brought the island back into the headlines, but, dreadful as it was, the accident could have happened anywhere in a flood. Such incidents occurred during the Queensland floods and they are all the more terrible for their cruel randomness.

Other deaths, a rape and robbery, burglaries, might leave the impression that this is an extremely dangerous place to be.

Yet we have never felt unsafe here. If I had to I would not hesitate to walk home unaccompanied at night; my greatest concern would be a twisted ankle from the dodgy footpaths.

We are long past the age of teenage risk-taking, so granted, we take a sensible approach to life. We live in a secure compound with a Balinese family and other guests, but we have our own space. We lock the door, but I am not sure that it is necessary. Ubud is like that. So far.

Down on the coast though, it is a different story  and to understand, a little background is required.

Indonesia is an archipelago of more than 17000 islands, and the government has named only about 8000 of them. Many have a distinct cultural identity and language, but the country is politically united through the official language, Bahasa Indonesia, and religion, Islam. Bali is unique, having retained its religious identity of Hinduism where religion is an integral part of daily life. Speaking generally, the Balinese people are gentle and spiritual and crime is anathema to them.

However tourism brings with it greed, and the people of Bali, and its close neighbour Java are poor. A policeman earns $250 a month; a labourer less than $5 for a long day. Goodness knows what hotel staff earn, but even a $1 tip is received with gratitude. Westerners must seem extremely wealthy. Some spend hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars a night on hotel accommodation. Wherever there is social inequality the have-nots will want some of the action. Recently in Canggu there has been a crime wave. Luxurious villas owned by Westerners have been targeted and the story is that Javanese labourers have been recruited by Javanese crime syndicates to give information about likely stings. Even if you pay for security, it is said that a blind eye can be turned (or worse, a key copied) for a cut of the takings. The penalties are harsh if caught, so they must consider the risk worthwhile. Fortunately we don't have wealth to flaunt, but it's certainly not smart to walk around with flashy jewellery or phones.

The arak problem also has cultural and political roots. Islamic Indonesia decries alcohol of any kind, but pragmatically realises that tourists demand it. The government is also officially unhappy with the Balinese attitude to the relaxed non-Islamic life. Taxes are therefore very high, and to make a profit, unscrupulous bars will dilute the local spirit. With methanol. At best you will feel terrible, at worst you will die. Your choice.

And then there's terrorism. We've had our own six-degrees brush as mentioned yesterday, but again, you'd have to be terribly unlucky. Hundreds were terribly, tragically unlucky, in 2002 and again in 2005, but security has been stepped up hundredfold, and the mass targets appear to be mostly symbols of non-Islamic 'decadence' such as bars and nightclubs. For Australians, subscribing to DFAT's regular travel advisories keeps you in the loop and it's not a bad idea to register with the Consulate or Embassy if you are here for any length of time.

Yes, there are risks, but living itself is a risk.