Early morning

Between first light and about 8 is the coolest, loveliest time to walk. There is almost never rain; that tends to come in the afternoon or evening, when it happens. By about 7.30 the traffic has started to build and the heat of the day is becoming apparent. But early morning is magic, especially when you go off the backroads and though the rice fields and villages.

Yesterday we climbed the short staircase beside the Bintang supermarket* up into the scattered villages of Penestanan, high on the ridge. This route begins as narrow laneways, barely a motorcycle width and often with steep falls on one side. It would be very easy for an inexperienced rider to lose control and never be seen again, but the Balinese have been riding their machines since they were children and are very skilled. Tucked down these laneways are all manner of accommodation from homestays to luxury villas, although you would want to be travelling light to access them. A visitor to Bali need not book in advance at this time of year. Head for the hills and explore what is available. You are unlikely to be disappointed.

This village is known as a yoga, meditation and alternative medicine hub, but many tiny warungs also tempt a break in the walk. Another glimpse of how Bali used to be, with papaya and mango growing freely in the lanes.

Once you hit the main Penestanan road however, it's back to traffic although the noise is not so bad as it is punctuated by the crow of the fighting cockerels that the Balinese men keep under baskets in the compounds.

Plenty of spas, hotels and cafes along here, including a branch of Kue, the go-to place in Ubud if you fancy a bread or cake fix. The Penestanan store is much smaller, but has a selection of goodies and is a lot more convenient for us. A tamarind and ginger soda did the refreshment trick for me, but Eddie had a great coffee and a scone that he declared very nearly as good as the ones he had in Ireland (and they were the best ever).

Down the very steep hill (no pavement, lots of traffic) past the Blanco Museum brings you back to Jl Campuan and home. Along this road is the usual access stairway to the top, but the Bintang stairway provides a longer, but more scenic (if narrow) pathway. Two hours at a comfortable pace was rewarded by the scenery and the post-walk cooling swim.

*entitled to a post of its own at some stage