Saturday, May 18, 2013

Garden of Earthly Delights



We have eaten a number of times on past trips at Warung Pulau Kelapa, an attractive and cheap eatery less than a minute's walk from where we are staying. The food is a bit different from the standard fare, with tasty Javanese dishes on the menu. Because it was usually later when we ate, we had noticed, but paid no attention to, the small sign (not the one above) inviting people to visit the garden at the back. But this morning, on a leisurely stroll along Jl Sanggingan, we decided to walk down, expecting something lovely, but modest. 

Jl Sanggingan is an extension of Jl Campuan* and usually there is a steady stream of cars and scooters. We had no idea that, 200 metres behind the bustle, old Ubud was still in evidence with rice being harvested, coconut trees in abundance, the mountains behind and an amazing organic garden occupying several acres of land. Although the gardens have consumed some of the rice fields, it has been done respectfully, replacing what was there with green, not concrete. Not so long ago, all of Ubud looked like this. The arrival of electricity is within the collective memory, but now the rate of change is frightening. It's good to be reminded of how things were. 

 

Walking past the restaurant a series of steps takes you past a lovely pavilion down to a small valley, and then up again to see the sign at the top. Yes, pick your own. Everything is beautifully arranged, plants are labelled, some in English, and you can easily spend an hour wandering and admiring. Papaya and pumpkin; galangal and lemongrass - there is an abundance of everything edible.

Such a treat, and all so beautiful. May it ever stay so.

*I intend to do some street-specific posts at some stage.


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