Change is all around

Each trip to Bali leaves me struggling with the question of whether visitors like us are part of the problem or part of the solution. Change is everywhere, the result of catering to tourist needs at the expense of traditional lifestyle. We can rationalise our involvement as being low impact as we stay in simple accommodation, have modest needs but are also contributing to the economy. Nevertheless we see the rice fields disappearing around Ubud visit by visit, and evidence of even greater development. There has to be a limit to how much this place can sustain.

As Eddie has not been feeling well, we spent the first few days quietly. Yesterday we walked up to town - the centre is about a 20-minute walk from Campuan where we stay - and saw the  'new' market for the first time. If, like us, you have fond memories of the shambolic space opposite the Palace, you might be as disappointed as we were at the sanitised version. Safer? Absolutely. Cleaner? Sure. Atmospheric? Not at all. That there were so few people there (although Ubud is pretty quiet at the moment) seemed to say it all. I imagine the stall holders have a higher rental, but they certainly seem to have fewer buyers. There is no incentive to wander upstairs, so stalls up there would be lucky to have any sales at all. Not the same for anybody although remnants of the old place remain at the back.

L

Eddie's shoulder has still been troubling him so he had a massage at Golden Hands in the lovely Jalan Kejang. The recommendation proved excellent - the best treatment he as received in four countries, at no more than $6 for the hour. He is saying that it is definitely feeling better, so he'll go back in a few days for more. Golden hands and magic fingers.

Another change along Jl Campuan is this scary excavation. Wouldn't want to be in the temple when it's raining heavily. The space will be filled by yet another gallery in about three months.