Wayang Kulit

Ubud Community, the helpful publication available each month from the Information Centre opposite the Palace, tells us that the Tumpek Wayang ceremony was observed last Saturday. This is the day on the Balinese calendar when offerings are made particularly to shadow puppets but also musical instruments and dance equipment.The puppets are removed from their storage boxes and placed on a platform as if being used for a performance. Offerings are then placed and prayers given for the puppets to maintain taksu, the spiritual power of Bali.

Eddie's walking companion and friend Made is in Java at the moment so we were unable to ask him about this ceremony but a few weeks ago we learned that as well as being a celebrated dancer, he is also a master puppeter who has performed elsewhere in Asia and also in Europe.

We attended one of his performances soon after. Shadow puppets are traditionally Javanese, but the Balinese have their own version of Wayang Kulit, telling Hindu stories from the Ramayana. On the night we attended there was a large party of Indian people, no doubt expecting their traditional epic to be as they knew it. It probably was. In parts. But Made and his co-story teller made it their own adding contemporary touches. Ronaldo made an appearance at one stage, appropriately for soccer-mad Bali.

This particular tale was essentially the story of Rwa Bineda. A handout helped us keep track of the story and the cast of characters (and their shadow shapes) that included Rangda, the wicked witch often depicted in art and the Barong, part dragon, part Pekinese dog and the force for all that is good.

The narrative proceeded in three acts, told in Balinese, Bahasa Indonesia, snatches of English and another ancient language that Made mentioned, but whose name I have forgottten. A gamelan accompaniment added additional colour to the already colourful storytelling.

At the end of the show the Indian people flocked to the back of the screen (the performance had been lit by a traditional oil-burning lamp) and excitedly asked to look at the puppets used in the performance and their unused favourite characters still in the box. Lack of tradition was no concern to them at all. They had a great time and so did we.
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Next time we will watch from behind the scenes.

By the way, we are in the dry season. It isn't.