The herons of Petulu

We have finally witnessed the return of the herons to the village of Petulu Ganung. This phenomenon has been occurring, according to the village leaflet, since November 7, 1965. Yes, as precise as that. In the previous weeks the villagers had been partaking in many ceremonies, as they felt that the gods needed appeasement. The political situation in Indonesia, including Bali, was horrendous. Many thousands died on the island but the people of the village feel they were spared because of the lavish ceremony they had performed earlier despite their poverty. The birds arrived soon after, bringing with them prosperity from the attraction they have created.

A small entry fee is requested as you enter the village. The birds start to roost from about 5pm onwards, first a few, gradually increasing in number as the day draws to a close.

On the day we went there were few tourists: a small group of friendly schoolgirls from Denpasar, accompanied by their biology teacher and a backpacking couple from New Zealand. Made, a young man from the village, offered an insight into the phenomenon in excellent English. He told us that going to University was never an option for him, but he taught himself English at home using any textbook he could get his hands on. He is obviously a quick learner. A beautiful black Balinese kitten decided to join us with a miaow bigger than himself.

The leaflet advises that the birds 'populate once a year by egging process' and that the 'egging season falls on November December'. I quote with affection at the quaintness of expression. Perhaps Made should have advised on the translation. From nest building in November to March, when the chicks can fly, the birds stay put in Petulu.

As we walked back through the village at about 6 everyday life continued as it has done for centuries, including the men gossiping as they groomed their prize fighting cocks.

Petulu Ganung is about three kilometres north of Ubud. To reach it you drive through sawah to the village of Junjungan on an interesting and beautiful journey that passes a bridge to nowhere

and the now famous Not For Sale art installation. When we first saw this in a walk last year, it was arresting in its simplicity and powerful statement. Perhaps this was only ever intended to be temporary and the materials used not durable, as it has changed, become busier in its font and adornment. It has become quite an attraction though, and only yesterday a big concert was being held there.

Now

Last year